The Cape Winelands boasts dozens of top estates, so how will you ever experience all those diverse and delectable varietals? Here’s a plan, suggests JACQUES MARAIS: Get some wings!
Tuesday mornings don’t get much better than this, right? I’m strapped into the plush leather seat of an Airbus H-130 and my whole being vibrates to the powerful thrum of its blades thumping into the Cape autumn air.
In a helicopter like this, I can’t help but feel ever so slightly like a secret agent about to set off on some clandestine mission. My weapons: a backpack filled to the brim with Sony Alpha mirrorless cameras fitted with prime lenses. My mission: to sample a few award-winning wines for breakfast …
The disembodied voice of air traffic control crackles in my headphones to timeline me right back into the present. The Atlantic Ocean shimmers far below and, to our right, the east face of Table Mountain basks in the early amber rays of dawn.
I glance across to Neil Warren, our pilot and the CEO of Cape Town Helicopters. He’s pointing down towards Philip Kgosana Drive, where the bumper-to-bumper morning traffic struggles along like sluggish worker ants. We are commuting in style, though, and certainly not en route to just another 9–5 destination.
Wine farms: Muratie, Hartenberg, Cavalli, Creation, Babylonstoren, Klein Goederust, Brookdale, and Almenkerk.
Number of farms visited per experience: Select a maximum of two wine farms; alternatively, discuss any special requests in advance.
Cost: R20000–R27000 (about US$1136–US$1534 or €1063–€1434) per person.
Included: A dedicated pilot, your helicopter and an experienced wine guide (requested upon booking).
Booking: It is essential to book at least two days in advance.
Soon the city fades away and is replaced by the vibrant greenery of the Southern Suburbs a thousand-odd feet below us. A rolling latticework of vineyards unfolds all the way towards the hazy blue of False Bay as we begin the descent to our first wine estate of the morning.
Touchdown is on a lush lawn set amid the neat vine rows of Klein Constantia, one of the undisputed grand old dames of the Cape Winelands. An open Land Cruiser is waiting to whisk us away, with Jacqueline Harris – another legendary dame – at the wheel of the open game-drive vehicle.
This historic estate dates back to 1685 and the stately grounds ooze history and a sense of place. It’s rumoured that you can hear the ghost of Simon van der Stel, the original landlord, clinking glasses in the old cellar of the rambling manor house.
We have some spare time, so Jacqueline escorts us on a tour into the vineyards that cling to the high ridges along the peninsula’s spine. The view is to die for, and we drink it all in (if you’ll excuse the pun) while she regales us with tales of famous – and a few rather infamous – guests.
We learn that Klein Constantia is home to some of South Africa’s most historic vineyards, and it is no wonder that the owners take their custodianship of the land very seriously. The estate rates as one of the most sustainably farmed concerns in the Cape Winelands, with a strong focus on both organic and biodynamic principles.
The terroir here is the real talking point, though. Cooler temperatures along the high ridge lines intensify the concentration and flavour, thus preserving the natural acidity and pH of white varietals such as the estate’s award-winning Sauvignon Blanc.
Deep bedrock soils originated a good 600 million years ago and are both well- drained and fertile, with a high clay content to ensure good water retention during the long and dry Cape summer months. You could not wish for better conditions …
The indisputable star in Klein Constantia’s cultivar crown is its naturally sweet dessert wine, Vin de Constance. Ideal growing conditions for Muscat de Frontignan vines allow the berries to ripen fully before the ‘raisining’ process begins, allowing a remarkable intensity of flavour while retaining natural acidity.
This certainly isn’t your average Muscat. Connoisseurs agree it is the real deal and, as any sommelier will tell you, recognising the pedigree starts with your nose. The aroma alone is enough to conjure up visions of a bustling fruit market: Seville marmalade, quince paste with just a hint of ginger spice, and maybe some stone fruit playing hide and seek within the varied bouquet.
Then, when you take your first sip, the flavour engulfs your taste buds as if you are imbibing 100% pure summer, tinting your world as gold as the wine itself. The sweetness is in absolute equilibrium with the acidity and is reminiscent of decadent toffee dipped in the finest French bubbly.
“Definitely a sipper, this one,” I think to myself while holding back on the impulse to gulp it down and beg for a refill. That’s not on the cards, though, because Neil taps his watch, indicating that the helicopter is about to set course for our next stop …
Man, some days I really do love my job!
For more information, check out kleinconstantia.com.
Flight Plan: Don’t miss these top estates
Cape Town Helicopters offers easy ‘fly tastings’ to numerous wine estates in the Cape Winelands, including the prime destinations below.
Also bear in mind that you can plan and book tailor-made aerial adventures; click on helicopterscapetown.co.za or capetownexperiences.co.za for more information.
Muratie Winery
(20-minute flight from V&A Waterfront)
Lying in the protected Knorhoek valley, Muratie is not your average wine farm. This Stellenbosch-based heavyweight boasts an enviable reputation that dates back to the late 1600s. Today, wine buffs from around the world laud its award-winning Cabernets and Bordeaux blends.
The entire Muratie range is named after the colourful characters who shaped the estate’s brand story over the years – and the wines now representing them are still pushing boundaries. This was the first estate to plant Pinot Noir grapes in South Africa, and its stellar ports solidify its credibility as a winemaking pioneer.
In short, a visit to Muratie is akin to a history lesson in a glass, with mountain biking trails, exceptional cuisine and a top art gallery as part of this heady mix.
Hartenberg Winery
(20-minute flight from V&A Waterfront)
This family-run farm near Stellenbosch can trace its history all the way back to 1692, and since its very beginning the focus has been on caring for the land. Regenerative agriculture keeps the soil in superb shape and water conservation is a top priority. This means the estate brims with life, from insects and birds to bontebok and cattle.
Hartenberg is famed for red and white varietals grown on the well-drained, north-eastern Bottelary slopes. Its premium Shiraz and Chardonnays are the ultimate crowd pleasers, and its restaurant prides itself on serving sustainable and locally sourced farm staples.
A highlight is to walk among the herds of Ankole, Nguni and Dexter cattle on the estate.
Creation Wine Estate
(35-minute flight from V&A Waterfront)
Buckle up for breathtaking views and exquisite wines, this time in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, near Hermanus. The estate’s location rates as one of the most sought-after in the Winelands, with a micro-climate that delivers perfectly balanced blends.
Its sumptuous food pairings are legendary, including seven diverse options, from a classic ‘Story of Creation’ journey to a mind-bending ‘Chocolate & Wine Paradox’. Creation delivers what many rate as ‘the ultimate foodie adventure’, served up with a side of breathtaking scenery. creationwines.com
Babylonstoren
(25-minute flight from V&A Waterfront)
Babylonstoren epitomises everything about embracing the ‘good life’. Situated not far from Franschhoek, this sybaritic estate’s story traces back to 1692. A visit here guarantees a feast for the senses, with a backdrop of majestic mountains and framed by a sprawling garden bursting with botanical wonders. This garden could well be Babylonstoren’s soul, as the entire approach to food and wine here revolves around its ever-changing seasonal tapestry.
Once you touch down, you are free to explore: shop for artisanal goodies, wander hidden pathways or delve into the many treasures of the cellar and restaurant. You can even book individual culinary experiences, but be sure to do so 72 hours in advance.