Electric motoring finally arrives off-road in the shape of Mercedes-Benz’s latest G-Class. Is it a good idea? PETER FROST tested the G 580 on an impromptu Pinotage Route.
All the noise around Mercedes-Benz’s latest addition to the G-Class family has been about the fact that it dances in circles, much like a Harrier jump jet, circa 1969. That party trick – it’s officially called the G-turn Function and is very useful for getting out of tight spaces – has taken attention away from its real talking point: G580 marks the debut for electric motoring in the mainstream off-road market. That, of course, has many scratching their heads.
What’s the point of an electric car out in the bush (other than as a safari vehicle)? Charging will be tricky, if you’re holed up in, say, Die Hel with nothing more than a solar torch and a Bunsen burner. You’re missing the point, says Mercedes-Benz. The G580 is meant to take owners into the weekend wilderness, a leisure vehicle that is excellent for sorties outside town to nearby scenic spots perhaps or, more likely, wine farms. Quiet, sophisticated, green and quick – it all makes perfect sense to Stuttgart.
Given that, and because Pinotage is celebrating its centenary, we thought we’d test the car by visiting some of the Western Cape’s premier Pinotage estates, specifically Beyerskloof, Lanzerac, Kanonkop and – to really test the range – Southern Right, out in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley near Hermanus.
We began in Stellenbosch central, direction Beyerskloof. The day started early and, predictably, Stellenbosch traffic lived up toits war-zone reputation. An unexpected shower didn’t help matters. Immediately the big Merc made its point; silently sliding through the treacle chaos, there was no aggro, only a zen state of delicious calm. It’s hard to overstate how good electric motoring is for road rage. No fumes, certainly – score one for the environment – but also no fuming, as important for general wellness as a greener, cleaner world. Cocooned in the G’s bespoke, soundproof interior, high above the tumult, it’s remarkably tranquil.
NO GATE AT BEYERSKLOOF
Traffic slayed, through the – surprisingly understated – gates of Beyerskloof and to work. It’s been 100 years since Stellenbosch professor Abraham Perold first crossed Pinot Noir and Hermitage grapes in his back garden to give the world a uniquely South African wine. Today wineries as far away as Viu Manent in Chile and Moraine in New Zealand are winning awards with it, but getting here hasn’t been all sunshine and Rosé. Pinotage has had its critics, leading to Jan ‘Boland’ Coetzee, winemaker (and wit) famously calling Pinotage the ‘ugly duckling’ wine. Through much of the past three decades it battled a reputation as the poor man’s red: volume grapes and heavily oaked, certainly not for the discerning palate.
Fast forward and there’s been something of a revolution in Pinotage, championed by, predictably, the experts who have been making it all these years. Anri Truter, the current winemaker at Beyerskloof, is one such innovator. Taking a leaf out of his famous dad’s book, his approach is to age his wine in new oak for 12 months and treat the grape deferentially, both on the vine and in the cellar. His focus is on the terroir, the lands, the seasons, the reality of how his grapes are grown. And he was in a good mood, despite the unseasonal rain that had stopped him sugar testing that morning. “I can’t remember a longer growing season. Usually we’d be done and dusted by now. And of course, with Pinotage you want as much time on the vine as possible. 2025’s harvest is going to be the gift that keeps on giving.” Good news indeed, given that this year’s harvest will represent the centennial. Future collectors will have a double win – an anniversary wine that also happens to be an excellent year. And plans for the centennial? His answer was one I got used to hearing during the tour – plenty of celebrating, especially on the day itself (11 October) but no specifics, certainly not about an anniversary wine. Watch the socials, stay connected, details in the fullness of time. A very Pinotage answer that – complex, a bit mysterious.
KANONKOP – ALL IN THE FAMILY
Back in the G 580 and the rain had abated. The hop from Beyerskloof to Kanonkop, a 10-minute drive to the R44 estate, underlined the elegance of the electric G-Class. There are more sensible models (the diesel 400d) and sexier ones (the G63-AMG), but neither do class quite like the G580.
It’s that silent assassin thing again; touch the accelerator and the G missiles ahead, fist-in-velvet glove stuff, no prisoners taken, and all with zero histrionics. It’s the kind of quiet storm delivery that will appeal to those who’ve made their point years ago and have no need for exhaust antics or one-upmanship. Inside Kanonkop, the weight of history is everywhere. This is, after all, the acknowledged epicentre of Pinotage. It’s here that most of the heavyweight winemakers have wrestled the formidable grape into, if not submission, then something worthy of global admiration. Say the names Jan Boland Coetzee, Beyers Truter, Johann Krige or Abrie Beeslaar and the Pinotage junkies sway and swoon. Now that Abrie has stepped aside, it’s a team taking the reins these days. And among them – Francois van Zyl, Christelle van Niekerk, Ruan van Schalkwyk – is the Krige name again: Suzaan Krige, daughterof owner Paul. It all adds up to a Marvel Universe A-list of talent, good for the next 100 years (and hopefully a bottle of something as memorable as Kanonkop’s 1989 masterpiece). The centenary will focus on something special, along with the usual 11 October tastings of rare, older Pinotage from the hallowed cellars.
THE OLD OAKS OF LANZERAC
On the way to Lanzerac through the Stellenbosch suburbs, theG580 showed another positive; its boxy shape makes town driving nothing like as stressful as an organic shape would. Ends are visible, positioning it in tight back lanes is a synch and the height makes for extra confidence. The power delivery is of course instant; after4000km in the diesel variant 400d across the country over Christmas, we can confidently say the electric G is light years ahead in terms of responsiveness. Size be damned in fact; all that torque (1164Nm!)rockets the three-ton, moveable barn across intersections and along avenues with alarming ease.
If Beyerskloof puts little store in pomp and ceremony, Lanzerac, with its ancient row of oaks and 200-year-old manor house, trades in magnificence, good for humbling Euro tourists and picky wine aficionados. Which is not to say it’s stuffy. On the day of the visit, the Deli, Taphuis and Craven Lounge were heaving with every sort, while spa refugees in ghost-white gowns flashed across the manicured turf. Lanzerac is a thriving business, all anchored in the grape, and specifically the success of Pinotage. It was, after all, here that the first bottle of the red stuff entered a slightly bemused market in 1959.Today Wynand Lategan oversees a very different animal, a celebrated cellar with standouts such as his Pionier Pinotage, good for regularly winning awards on the global stage. Wynand, all about the evolution of viticulture, is not afraid of a challenge or, it seems, the slaying ofholy cows; the Pinotage Rosé is a fresh, accessible entry point for many embarking on a Pinotage journey and is a bestseller in the estate’s various eateries. It’s here that the anniversary will be celebrated and yes, there’s a centenary wine in the offing. Also no, no details yet, TBC, watch our socials …
SOUTHERN RIGHT
Finally, out of Stellenbosch through the Overberg to Hermanus and the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, some 100km along the coast. The big Mercedes was finally able to showcase its distance legs. And legs it most certainly has. Town might be electric’s raison d’être, but the long road is as much fun – and more – in certain situations, notably on mountain passes and when overtaking. The range on the G580 is around 430km, after which you’ll need an hour to recharge the bank of lithium ions under the floor. That’s plenty for an out-of-town weekend sortie (and back).
Southern Right has to be one of the region’s most beautiful estates, a fusion of fynbos, varietals and views. It was established as a Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc specialist estate, able to concentrate on the specific needs of both those wines, and is overseen by winemaker Emul Ross. He explained that it’s the cooling sea climate and stony, clay-rich soils that most influence Southern Right’s Pinotage. The combination lends it a gentility, good for bringing out the parent Pinot Noir of the grape. The upshot is wines like Emul’s achingly beautiful 2023 Pinotage, celebrated, collected, envied. Wine to die for.
Tracking back to Stellenbosch via Theewaterskloof – why take the road most travelled? – two things were abundantly clear. Pinotage –new, lighter, classier, complex – is the wine of the future; and electric motoring equally so. Combine the two (but take a driver) and you have a recipe for a memorable day out: quiet, restful, sophisticated but also, dare we say it, spirited. Highly recommended, both addictions.
INFORMATION
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