With a bold vision underpinned by sustainable tourism and a dedication to conservation, Samara Karoo Reserve is rewilding one of the most remarkable corners of the Great Karoo, as RICHARD HOLMES reports.
“It is a country flooded by sun; lonely, sparse, wind-swept, treeless on the flats for many miles,” wrote Eve Palmer, whose book The Plains of Camdeboo is perhaps the most evocative history of the Karoo ever written.
The wide-open expanses of the Camdeboo, that corner of the Karoo to the east of Graaff-Reinet, are indeed lonely, sparse and flooded by sun. But they are also unspeakably beautiful, filled with life and intrigue if you know where to look.
“Here,” wrote Palmer, “moves a steenbok, a springbuck, a lark clapping its wings above us; here are the tracks of an ant-bear in the soil. Red dust and a mottled egg upon it; arrowheads; the smell of rain, karoo bush, wild asparagus; mountains and hills floating in a mirage of water; a white hot sky; the sound of cicadas and wings and wind.”
Mark and Sarah Tompkins fell for the magic of the Camdeboo more than 20 years ago and soon set about bringing a dream to life. They began by buying up the region’s old farms; overgrazed land in need of rest and care. One farm followed another, fences were dropped and soon Samara stretched to more than 27 000ha. With dedication and vision, they created a new-found ancient wilderness of gravel plains and wooded valleys, grassy escarpments offering endless views across the plains.
Over time the land returned to looking much how it was before farming laid its scars. Flowering sweet thorn acacias colour the thickets in blushes of yellow. Herds of antelope roam the plains again, now keeping a wary eye out for the cheetah that may be lying in the shade of a shepherd’s tree. Elephants were returned to the reserve, as were lions, creating a rich ecosystem in careful balance.
Today Samara boasts a wide range of animal life, best discovered on daily game drives or thrilling bush walks. Across the diverse ecosystems you might find kudu and gemsbok, perhaps eland on the plains. Verreaux’s eagles soar above the crags, while clapper larks lay on their impressive display of leaping into the air, then beating their wings together as they fall back to earth.
While this conservation work is noteworthy, and part of a broader effort to rewild this corner of the Eastern Cape, it’s all based on a model of sustainable ecotourism. And it’s been remarkable to see the carefully considered expansion of the hospitality offered by Samara over the past decade, with the renovation of existing products and the addition of entirely new experiences.
In the west of the reserve, The Manor taps into the growing demand for exclusive-use properties, and with four suites sleeping up to eight guests it’s ideal for family groups, friends and multi-generational travellers who favour privacy and flexibility over being able to mingle with other guests. Decorated in a delightfully contemporary Karoo style, The Manor comes with a private vehicle and guide, while a dedicated private chef and host allow for absolute flexibility in everything from when to head out on safari drives to where breakfast should be served.
DECORATED IN A DELIGHTFULLY CONTEMPORARY KAROO STYLE, THE MANOR COMES WITH A PRIVATE VEHICLE AND GUIDE.
At the other end of the luxury spectrum is the unpretentious Plains Camp, which opened in 2023 in the eastern reaches of the reserve. It’s a half-hour drive from The Manor and has been imagined as an eco-sensitive escape that touches the earth lightly. Built on raised platforms, the four free-standing suites are all under canvas, with a private shaded deck gazing out over the plains.
Unfenced and immersed in the landscape, it blends in so effortlessly you’ll often find herds of antelope trotting past and the tracks of nocturnal predators on the dirt paths that link the communal dining area with the tents. In each suite there’s a charming pioneer aesthetic, with iron bedsteads, heritage touches and – breathe a sigh of relief – flushing toilets. The bucket shower is al fresco and will be filled with hot water on request. In the depths of the Karoo winter you may think this a recipe for frostbite, but the thoughtful addition of sheepskin throws – a nod to the heritage of these lands too – and a cosy wood-burning stove in each tent ensures you’ll be perfectly toasty once ensconced in your suite.
But the latest chapter in Samara’s ongoing evolution launched early in 2024, with a revamp – actually more like a reimagining – of the idyllic Karoo Lodge. “The redesign pays homage to this special region we call home,” explains Sarah Tompkins. “A great deal of love and hard work has gone into retaining the lodge’s quintessential Karoo character while embracing a modern approach to safari living.”
To bring that vision to life, Sarah worked with local Graaff-Reinet architect Peter Whitlock, interior designer Amy Kidger of Hinterland Studio, creative director Paul Duncan and horticulturist and landscaper Arthur Mennigke of The Naked Gardener. Together they took inspiration from both the local vernacular and the natural landscapes of the reserve, blending traditional Karoo style with contemporary South African design.
Weaving in personal touches that highlight Samara’s conservation journey, the whole grew to be greater than the sum of the parts, creating a textured aesthetic that truly celebrates the unique soul of Samara – and the Karoo.
In many ways, Karoo Lodge is the heart and soul of this remarkable reserve. The traditional farmstead of deep-shaded stoeps and grassy lawns is where the Samara story began way back in 1997. Today this reinvigorated space is an oasis amid summer’s heat and a bolthole when the winter weather rolls in. And it’s now looking better than ever.
The revamp was extensive, transforming the original lodge – a somewhat disconnected space – into living, dining and learning areas. They include a wonderfully atmospheric dining room, served by the new farm-style kitchen where guests are welcome to pop in and see what’s on the menu. A wine cellar taps into some of the Cape’s finest wineries, while the library is the perfect space for guests to delve into the rich history of the region. Of course, there’s a copy of Palmer’s classic book on hand. And for those who want to discover more about Samara’s story and the incredible conservation efforts that have defined the past 20 years, a new interactive ‘story room’ showcases Samara’s past, present and future.
A similar approach informs the suites, where hand-embroidered cushions celebrate the indigenous vegetation and link to the lodge’s surroundings. There, considered landscaping has created a green oasis of a Karoo homestead garden, blending effortlessly into the natural veld of the reserve.
Karoo Lodge now offers 10 suites, sleeping up to 24 guests, to ensure an intimate yet convivial escape. The eight Karoo Suites are perhaps the most popular, sleeping two people each and set just a short walk from Karoo Lodge. Best for couples, each suite offers a romantic four-poster bed, fireplace and large en-suite bathroom that opens onto an outdoor shower.
IN MANY WAYS, KAROO LODGE IS THE HEART AND SOUL OF THIS REMARKABLE RESERVE. THE TRADITIONAL FARMSTEAD OF DEEP-SHADED STOEPS AND GRASSY LAWNS IS WHERE THE SAMARA STORY BEGAN WAY BACK IN 1997.
The bedroom leads onto a private terrace that looks out over the reserve and up to the striking Aasvoëlberg and distant Tandjiesberg peaks – perfect for quiet afternoons with binoculars in hand, or perhaps a night of stargazing beneath the sweep of southern skies.
A short walk from Karoo Lodge you’ll find the pair of Karoo Family Suites, each offering two en-suite bedrooms and a shared living room. With comforts similar to those of the Karoo Suites, these are ideal for families or couples travelling together. One child (younger than 12) can also be accommodated on an extra bed in the living area.
This new level of Karoo luxury comes with a dollop of planet- friendliness. Karoo Lodge is now powered by 100% renewable energy, with innovative wastewater recycling systems that ensure minimal impact on the sensitive Karoo ecosystem. No surprise, then, that Samara is a Fellow Member of The Long Run, a collection of the world’s most sustainable nature-based travel destinations that champion the balance of conservation, community, culture and commerce.
Because balance is everything, especially out here in the harsh landscape of the Camdeboo. And just as this corner of the Karoo is a land flooded by sun, lonely and sparse, it is equally a landscape alive with life, intrigue and a bright future.