A new dawn is breaking at Quoin Rock: a new season, a new restaurant, a new energy and, as SEBASTIAN BARTLETT discovers, a new dining experience.
AS THE VINEYARDS that carpet the flanks of the Simonsberg mountains flush with fresh leaf and the winemakers of Stellenbosch look hopefully toward the coming harvest, a bold new era in dining is unfolding at Quoin Rock estate.
This summer, Quoin Rock is very excited to unveil Quartz Restaurant in the estate’s former Wine Lounge. And, perhaps fittingly, it’s the fruit of the vines that underpins the new culinary experience.
“With Quartz Restaurant we want to step back to the origins of Quoin Rock and to build a special food experience around the wines,” explains Denis Gaiduk, CEO of Quoin Rock. “Quartz is about creating a connection to the terroir, where our vines grow on the decomposed granite soils of the Simonsberg.”
The chef in charge of turning that vision into reality is Edmund Viljoen, who brings an impressive résumé of international experience together with deep roots in the Winelands. Edmund began his career at the Institute of Culinary Arts and soon found himself on a global stage cooking in the Michelin-starred kitchen of The Fat Duck, Heston Blumenthal’s famed eatery in Berkshire, England.
“My experience at The Fat Duck really formed the baseline for my career,” he says. “That dedication to excellence, the attention to detail, the focus. It’s something I’ve carried with me.” After Blumenthal, Edmund’s career stretched from working for the Rothschilds at Waddesdon Manor, to the Bazaruto Archipelago and luxury lodges in the Lowveld, and globe-trotting on superyachts before coming full circle to the Winelands.
Seven years after the estate’s inaugural fine-dining experience pushed the boundaries of gastronomy in the Stellenbosch Winelands, this award-winning estate’s restaurant has been reinvented, offering a memorable experience built on refined cuisine inspired by the wines of Quoin Rock, with a menu that gives diners the freedom to create their own culinary journey.
Along with a new name, new venue and new chef, Quartz Restaurant brings an entirely new approach to Quoin Rock’s dining experience. The previous gastronomic adventure centred on a multi-course tasting menu, whereas Quartz Restaurant offers relaxed fine dining.
“We are still committed to the finesse of fine dining, but we’re also aware that tastes are changing,” says Denis. “People are increasingly seeking out cuisine that is lighter, healthier and more accessible. We have definitely seen a move away from guests wanting a five-hour experience over eight or 10 courses.”
Quartz Restaurant opens with a carefully considered menu of contemporary cuisine that taps into South African producers and culinary traditions and creates a selection of dishes that let the wines of Quoin Rock take centre stage.
It begins with the bread course delivered to the table with a trio of house butters; the standout is a sweeter option infused with the estate’s Vine-dried Sauvignon Blanc. While you peruse the menu, why not start with a plate of oysters, long a signature of the Quoin Rock experience? Under Edmund they come dressed in a mignonette of passion-fruit, pink peppercorn and rosemary to offer a perfect pairing with the estate’s vintage Cap Classique.
The amuse bouche – perhaps a delicate tart of fresh spring greens – is a delight, and a precursor to the quiet artistry to follow. And while there is no shortage of creativity on display, Edmund prefers to let the ingredients speak for themselves.
“My philosophy is always to start with the best ingredients, manipulate them as little as possible, while presenting the dish so that you feast with your eyes first. I also believe that food has to complement the space you’re dining in. Quartz is bright and modern, and so the dishes must meet that standard.”
That’s immediately apparent from an early taste of Edmund’s inaugural menu, where diners are invited to opt for a three- or four-course experience, chosen from more than a dozen dishes. And it’s a menu as diverse as it is inspired, drawing on both hand-picked local suppliers and estate produce while weaving in subtle South African influences.
Freshly caught linefish is cured with the QR Husk Spirit. Ostrich from Oudtshoorn forms the basis of a summery pâté. Home-grown corn shoots provide freshness in the burrata salad. And in the future, venison will be sourced from Quoin Rock’s 3 000ha estate on the Agulhas Plain.
It all comes together seamlessly in a menu that will cater to every palate. The richness of blesbok transforms a tartare served atop brioche with duck-fat confit egg yolks. A topping of caviar – highly recommended – is available as an additional supplement.
The main course of pea gnocchi is deftly lifted by the bright freshness of lemon stracciatella; a dish of layered simplicity that is simply perfect for summer. It’s a delicate portion, and those of heartier appetites may be happier with the confit chicken leg, paddling on an intense chicken jus with a warm salad. The richness of an hours-long petit salé confit combines beautifully with the crunch of fresh greens to create a dish both hearty and fit for summer.
But surely the standout plate is Edmund’s pasta, where house-made linguine provides the silky stage for a textured discovery of Cape Malay flavours. There’s depth in the curry from tomato confit and a Namibian crab claw for indulgence, and a perfectly judged warmth of chilli filtering through.
Skilled wine stewards are on hand throughout the experience to suggest wine pairings from the extensive range of Quoin Rock releases. The complete collection of QR wines is offered by the glass, or bottle, alongside an impressive library selection of older vintages. And, of course, they are all poured in Schott Zwiesel crystal stemware. It’s an attention to detail that runs like a golden thread through the reinvention of the space by Quoin Rock’s Yuliya Gaiduk. With a subtle evolution of the decor, she has created a thoroughly sophisticated space, where the lofty roof lends a sense of airy serenity.
Bathed in natural light, this soaring dining space blends modern geometry with understated elegance. Sculptural lighting installations hang effortlessly from the vaulted ceiling, while pale timber furniture – crafted by Pierre Cronje – and linen textures evoke a sense of quiet refinement. On the walls, an exhibition by photographer Diaan
de Beer provides pops of colour.
Taken together, Quartz Restaurant serves up a serene, design- forward haven where fine dining, architectural grace and the natural beauty of the Simonsberg converge. V