Recognised as one of South Africa’s leading food and wine destinations, Stellenbosch is home to an extraordinary collection of award-winning restaurants, wine estates and chefs. Taste Stellenbosch celebrates this culinary community through a programme designed to showcase the culinary creativity and generosity that define the region. 

This year’s line-up features everything from intimate chef collaborations and vineyard feasts to long-table lunches, wine pairings and specially curated seasonal menus. Highlights include experiences at De Warenmarkt, Muratie Farm Kitchen, HŌSEKI at Delaire Graff Estate, Lanzerac, Warwick Wine Estate, Klein Joostenberg Bistro and many more, each offering visitors a unique way to discover Stellenbosch through food and wine. 

Taste Stellenbosch extends beyond the table. A selection of exclusive accommodation offers at boutique guesthouses, vineyard retreats and luxury hotels encourages visitors to slow down, stay a little longer and enjoy everything the destination has to offer. 

“Taste Stellenbosch is more than a celebration of exceptional food and wine. It is a celebration of the people, passion and craftsmanship that have shaped Stellenbosch into South Africa’s leading food and wine destination,” says Annemie Liebenberg, CEO of Visit Stellenbosch. “Every chef, winemaker, farmer, artisan producer and host contributes to a culinary story that is uniquely Stellenbosch.”

Whether you’re planning a leisurely weekend in the Winelands or simply looking for your next memorable meal, Taste Stellenbosch offers the perfect excuse to gather around the table and experience the flavours, people and places that make Stellenbosch one of the country’s most celebrated culinary destinations.

Discover the full programme and plan your visit here.

The post Taste Stellenbosch Returns appeared first on Stellenbosch Visio.

IT ALL STARTED with the drift video. During the Defender OCTA’s development phase in 2024 a viral moment lit up the internet when the vehicle was filmed executing a perfect four-wheel drift through Swallow’s Tail at the Nürburgring.

Back then all that was known was that the car weighed close to three tons and was, as all Defenders are, all about ride height and clearance. How could a tractor smoke the Ring?

The answer lay in two areas: the inclusion of the uprated BMW V8 4.4L twin turbocharged powerplant and an industry-leading 6D suspension system. Hydraulically interlinked dampers were the secret – they enabled the leviathan to stay flat in brutal cornering.

Add bespoke BF Goodrich boots with reinforced sidewalls, upgraded Brembo brakes, a strengthened chassis, a wider track and a reconfigured cooling system and you had a road warrior that could smoke – literally – the competition on tar as well as dirt. Think Dakar and Silverstone in one afternoon.

OCTA’s success has been evident ever since, sought after by fans of the active weekend as well as by the glitterati. Cue that active weekend for us.

The gorgeous Saragossa Blue behemoth headed through eight passes across the Western Cape, from fast tar to crawling dirt, all the better to viscerally understand its composite abilities.

Eight passes? Puddysticks, given that the province has more than 300 officially recognised passes and poorts to choose from. Our route took us out of Cape Town into the Klein Karoo over Du Toitskloof, Cogmanskloof near Montagu, Op de Tradouw connecting Barrydale, Huisrivier and Naauwkloof outside Calitzdorp, Seweweekspoort through the Swartberg, Rooiberg and then Garcia’s over the Langeberg.

DEFENDER OCTA – 6D DIRT ROAD DYNAMICS

So to the OCTA. Climb aboard and the Edmund Hillary drawing room effect is immediate: bespoke, elegant and beautifully appointed, yet fit for purpose as well – durable, solid, robust.

Fire up the primal V8, listen for the distant growl, pull away and the reserves of torque are abundantly obvious. This is a car that leaps forward at the slightest throttle opening.

We left the traffic chaos of Cape Town and headed up Du Toitskloof Pass rather than through the tunnel. There’s that adaptive suspension working, keeping the car stable. Confidence climbed, as did the corner count. Inevitably an overcooked moment. Physics asserted itself, Newton’s first law demanding respect. But no problem, OCTA counteracted, tightened its line, defied the Englishman. Amazing. Good fun. And only the first pass.

SEWEWEEKSPOORT AND THE OCTA MODE MAGIC

Once beyond the Breede Valley the R62 opens up. The stretch from Montagu to Barrydale is one of the great driving roads of the world: fast, well cambered, undulating, empty. The OCTA channelled its inner supercar, hunkering down in Dynamic Mode, ride height automatically lowering, the throttle sharpening, weight added to the steering, stiffness dialled in to the hydraulic dampers. It’s astonishing how quick, how simple, how intoxicating it is. All too soon Barrydale was behind us and our real goal, Seweweekspoort, was ahead.

Seweweeks is a poort, not a pass, meaning it snakes through the Swartberg, not over it, along the bed of an ancient river. And the approach road to the poort is ideal to test OCTA’s pièce de résistance, the OCTA Mode. Press the diamond-shaped button on the steering wheel and the car configures for fast off-road dirt driving. Defender becomes, in essence, a Dakar trophy truck.

We stopped to test the Off-Road Launch Control, which sent us rocketing towards the poort at warp speed. In OCTA Mode the suspension uncouples the anti-roll bars, allowing for maximum articulation; a good move as it turned out, because we hit a washout and powered through without bottoming out.

Yet despite the uncoupling, the active suspension keeps working to reduce roll and pitch. It all adds up to a spectacularly secure dirt road charge, and it’s not hard to understand how Rokas Baciuška won the Stock Class at Dakar this year in his OCTA.

The poort itself – giant folds of ancient rock twisted by heat and time – dwarfed the OCTA but tested its water wading as we crawled up a side track to hidden Tierkloof Dam. The river from the dam had come up in the good rains and we had to ford it as we headed to the imposing wall. No problem, another feather in its cap: a frankly astonishing 1m wading ability.

Out of Seweweekspoort, back on the tar and heading for the overnight stop at Calitzdorp, we hit Thomas Bain’s splendid Huisrivier Pass, re-engineered in 1966. Again the OCTA’s agility proved itself, the switchbacks at the western end no problem and the sweeping inclines to the east hugely enjoyable under power; verily no replacement for displacement.

CLIMB ABOARD AND THE EDMUND HILLARY DRAWING ROOM EFFECT IS IMMEDIATE: BESPOKE,

ELEGANT AND BEAUTIFULLY APPOINTED, YET FIT FOR PURPOSE AS WELL – DURABLE, SOLID, ROBUST.

BEYOND CALITZDORP, THE ROOIBERG ASCENT

The next morning, beyond Calitzdorp there was one major test left: the ascent of Rooiberg Pass out of town towards the tiny hamlet of Vanwyksdorp. Rooiberg has elements of Swartberg Pass in its hand-built feel and nature. It climbs up the side of the massif in a series of tight, rocky hairpin bends, a one in seven uncambered ascent, best done slowly and with great care. Completed in 1928, it finally linked Vanwyksdorp to the outside world.

For the steepest section we set the OCTA’s Terrain Response to gravel and, predictably, it aced the climb. The pass’s broken surfaces served to underline the importance of a holistic approach to off-road motoring; the 20-inch BF Goodrich Trail Terrain tyres proved an integral part of the overall package.

The journey back to Cape Town felt far easier, probably due to car and driver having established a rapport. Familiarity is a fine thing and gave us the chance to truly enjoy the luxurious interior, as quiet as a limousine and just as spacious.

As the coastal belt appeared, along with its complex traffic issues, a final thought: few cars in the world can fulfil as many functions as the OCTA – town, country, boulevard or bushveld.

It’s an SUV for the few, a performance car and off-road specialist wrapped in a bespoke suit, a distilled experience of serenity, ability and rarity. Masterful.

Click here for more information on the Defender OCTA.

The post The Power of Eight appeared first on Stellenbosch Visio.

THE BONTEBOK were the first to arrive, a one-of-a-kind welcome party for the first guests staying at De Hoop Villa. Their painterly colours – dark chestnut flanks with an aubergine swish – complemented the swirl of sunset colours in the sky. Everywhere you look at De Hoop Collection, the main base for visitors to De Hoop Nature Reserve, there is beauty to see.

Earlier, our guides and hosts, Francois and Ruda van Heerden, had officially welcomed us to the new villa with glasses of bubbly. Sleeping small parties of six in three elegantly decorated en-suite rooms, De Hoop Villa is an exclusive retreat for travellers who want to get closer to nature.

On the walls, exquisite botanical prints from the Grootbos Florilegium collection pay tribute to the region’s fynbos. In the lounge, plump sofas invite you to sink into them, setting the tone for a relaxing stay. Large glass doors bring the outside in, so you can keep an eye out for wildlife from wherever you find to be most comfortable. In the bedroom, I watched as a small grey mongoose trotted past into the fynbos.

De Hoop Villa is so thoughtfully designed, you might be tempted to stay put. When the weather is fine, you can dine out on the terrace or swap stories and s’mores around the firepit.

At the front of the villa, sun loungers frame a private pool – I’ve never before had the chance to swim with wildlife grazing nearby. There’s even a wood-fired hot tub to soak away the last of your city stress.

But one of the villa’s standout features will convince you to head out sooner rather than later. It’s the striking design on the wallpaper in the bathrooms and the armchairs in the lounge. The illustration is a dazzling display of some of the species found at De Hoop. An orange-breasted sunbird perches near a red pincushion. The patterns of a monarch butterfly rival the designs on a spider flower. The lime and pale pink of a leopard toad echo the colours of a water lily.

It’s the work of textile designer Karen Ellis Brown, who found that time in the reserve lit her creative spark. “Karen is a friend who needed to recharge her batteries, so I invited her to stay at De Hoop,” recounts William Stephens, the founder and CEO of De Hoop Collection, a member of Cape Country Routes. Soon the beauty and serenity of De Hoop prompted Karen to start sketching, in particular the often overlooked, but no less important, smaller creatures. “Being surrounded by nature is a truly transformative experience,” she says.

And what surroundings they are! De Hoop Nature Reserve lies in the Cape Floral Kingdom, protecting fynbos and rare renosterveld. De Hoop Vlei, a Ramsar-designated wetland, is a haven for waterbirds, attracting flamingos, great white pelicans and pied kingfishers. Up on the cliffs of Potberg, in the north-east of the reserve, the Western Cape’s last colony of Cape vultures is growing in numbers. Along the coastline, African oystercatchers find the perfect buffet in the shelf-like rock pools, while the waters annually play host to whales that journey to De Hoop from Antarctica to calve in the temperate waters.

During a stay at De Hoop Villa, you get the chance to not only experience the different faces of the reserve, but to understand what makes its inhabitants tick.

The first day, the promise of freshly brewed coffee got us up for an early morning marine walk. Truthfully, there was simply no way to resist Ruda’s excitement about exploring the rock pools shortly after dawn – the tide would be low and the forecast was for no wind. She was right; it was extraordinary to hunt along the rocky shore, the mirrored surfaces of the pools reflecting fluffy clouds above.

Ruda showed us reticulated sea stars that can regrow their limbs, a tiny shell hosting an even tinier hermit crab, velvety anemones and prickly sea urchins. The most fascinating find was a bubble-raft snail, a creature that floats on the open ocean thanks to the constellation of bubbles attached to its violet shell.

Our next outing, a nature walk with Francois, led from the villa to De Hoop Vlei and along its shore. “We’re going on a ‘sniffari’,” he joked and pointed out wild rosemary, which releases a menthol scent when the leaves are crushed. The shrub is also known as kapokbos for the white down attached to its seedheads. It’s a favourite of some bird species, like the Karoo prinia, which collect the cotton-wool-like balls to line their nests. While the birds get a soft, scented building material that dispels mites, the plant benefits by having its seeds distributed.

Back at De Hoop Villa, a decadent chocolate cake had magically appeared in time for tea – the villa comes with its own chef and caretaking team. It is one of three villas forming part of De Hoop Collection where guests enjoy guided activities and have all meals included as part of the stay. Later, chef Morné Phaff served up tender lamb potjie, a spectacular vegetable quiche and individual apple pies, among other treats.

The pace of the days was relaxed, with enough time to unwind by the pool or curl up with a book. Over a two-night stay, guests will typically head out on a sundowner game drive, an interpretive marine walk, a mountain bike tour, and a birding walk.

It’s possible to add other activities, such as an eco boat cruise on De Hoop Vlei, a trip to the vulture viewing deck or a visit to the Origins exhibit.

Formally called the Origins of Early Southern Sapiens Behaviour Exhibition, the display highlights archaeological discoveries made along the Cape south coast. From Klipdrift Shelter in De Hoop Nature Reserve, for example, there are fragments of painstakingly decorated ostrich shells that date back around 65 000 years. In fact, it was along this coastline that humankind made the giant strides in tool use and art that form the foundation of modern humans’ technological and conceptual abilities. Researchers theorise that this landscape’s abundant food supply made humankind’s intellectual development possible.

When I think of my time at De Hoop Villa, it seems that not much has changed in this corner of the country. It’s still a setting that nurtures those within its embrace, a place where the air and the water restore weary spirits. A place that inspires.

Travel Advisor

De Hoop Nature Reserve is a three-hour drive from Stellenbosch. In addition to the new De Hoop Villa, De Hoop Collection’s stable of accommodation includes the Opstal Houses and Suites, De Mond Villa, and Melkkamer Manor House. Rates for De Hoop Villa start at R6,500 per person per night, with a minimum booking of four guests. Meals and guided activities are included.

Introductory offer: Stay five nights and pay for only four until 31 August 2026. To book, call +27 21 422 4522 or email res@dehoopcollection.co.za.For more information, visit dehoopcollection.com.

The post Nourished by Nature appeared first on Stellenbosch Visio.

Tucked along the coastline of Keurboomstrand, BLOU is an intimate collection of eight self-catering cottages and a considered extension of the Babylonstoren and The Newt philosophy. Here, a beautiful stay is shaped by simplicity and an effortless connection to nature.

From the moment you step inside, there’s an immediate sense of calm. Much like Babylonstoren farm, the warmth of the welcoming staff sets the tone, making settling in feel natural.

The cottages are elegantly understated yet luxurious, with whitewashed walls, natural textures and blue interiors inviting the outside in. Whether facing the ocean or set around a sheltered courtyard, each space is designed with intention and in relation to the coastal setting. 

Keurboomstrand’s stretch of coastline is among the most beautiful in South Africa, rugged and refreshingly untouched. On a sun-soaked day, go for a morning swim in the sea and linger on the sand. Later, enjoy a drink on the cottage’s stoep, take another dip in the pool and get ready for dinner next door at Ristorante Enrico, a local favourite known for its relaxed atmosphere and generous Italian fare.

At BLOU, there’s no formal restaurant, and that’s part of the charm. Days unfold at your own pace, whether cooking in your cottage, exploring the surrounding nature reserves or venturing into Plettenberg Bay for its vibrant food scene. The Welcome House team is on hand to curate anything from restaurant bookings to outdoor adventures. However, doing very little here feels entirely sufficient.

Due to its limited availability, BLOU is only accessible to guests who have previously stayed at Babylonstoren or The Newt. Through this, BLOU remains intentionally under the radar, a secluded retreat for those seeking both rest and reconnection.

For anyone familiar with the Babylonstoren world, this coastal stay offers something beautifully complementary: a place to exhale and reset in blue. Sea, sky and everything in between.

The post BLOU at Keurboomstrand: Babylonstoren’s Coastal Escape appeared first on Stellenbosch Visio.

Thoughtfully reimagined, the Manor House and Jonkershuis offer an intimate Winelands retreat surrounded by gardens, lawns and vineyards.

Established in 1682, Blaauwklippen is South Africa’s oldest wine farm and the first registered company in the Cape Winelands. The Manor House and Jonkershuis were thoughtfully reconstructed and reopened earlier this year, reintroducing five-star accommodation to the estate. Guided by heritage architects and master craftsmen, original materials — including centuries-old bricks and fragments of Delft porcelain — were conserved and reinstated. Acclaimed designer Francois du Plessis created interiors that blend classic Cape Dutch elegance with a fresh, colourful touch inspired by the Stellenbosch Mountains.

The restored Manor House and Jonkershuis now offer 11 luxurious rooms and suites, once again welcoming travellers to the tree-lined avenue and courtyard that have served as a beacon of hospitality since the 1700s. Then. The estate that welcomed carriage travellers between Cape Town and Stellenbosch. Now. Faithfully rebuilt with the same dedication to excellence.

The accommodation ranges from refined Manor House rooms to spacious Jonkershuis luxury suites, all designed for slow, considered stays in a tranquil setting.

The post Blaauklippen’s Newly Opened Manor and Jonkershuis appeared first on Stellenbosch Visio.

In 2024, Kingsley completed the epic Afrika Odyssey Expedition, a 60 000-kilometre journey through 24 countries that delivered nearly 16 000 mosquito nets to families vulnerable to malaria. This was followed by work in Mozambique’s Gorongosa region, where his team combined health support with conservation education. Now in 2026, he’s embarked on the Defender Africa Traverse Expedition, a three-month mission that follows the Tropic of Capricorn from Namibia to Mozambique, bringing vital support to communities along the way.

Impact beyond miles

Since 2000, the Defender–Kingsley partnership has delivered tangible results across Africa:

• 481,000+ mosquito nets distributed, protecting millions from malaria
• 224,000 pairs of spectacles provided through the Rite to Sight programme
• 63+ million litres of clean water delivered via LifeStraw units
• Conservation education for hundreds of thousands of children
• Millions of nutritional meals supplied to early childhood centres

These achievements underline a simple truth: this is exploration with purpose.

Defender’s purposeful capability

Built for durability and unmatched off-road performance, Defender has been the trusted companion on every one of Kingsley’s major expeditions. From deserts and floodplains to isolated rural roads, its rugged capability ensures teams can carry essential equipment and reach communities others can’t.

More than a vehicle, Defender embodies resilience and meaningful impact, a fitting partner for a man whose adventures have always been about more than the journey itself.

The post Celebrating Kingsley Holgate at 80: A Lifetime of Journeys That Changed Lives Across Africa appeared first on Stellenbosch Visio.

MAYBE IT’S a South African thing, that dream of an open road, a big sky and a road trip playlist through a landscape as old as time. But maybe it’s more ancient than that, a need to discover new places, all the better for settling the restless soul.

Whichever, Mercedes-Benz understands the urge better than most. Its range of touring vehicles is astonishing indeed, from compact SUVs such as the GLA all the way through to the V-Class, the marque’s all-singing, all-dancing bespoke luxury 8-seater van. It’s hands down the most exclusive way to transport a crew of (very lucky) people in absolute comfort.

Still, its ultra-premium positioning isn’t for everyone and to address that, Mercedes-Benz has introduced Select, a premium version of the Vito, which to date has largely served the business market.

The new Vito Select then adds a long list of standard equipment ideal for families of every kind. There are two iterations: the five-seater Mixto, which has a ridiculously generous 4.1m3 of load volume in the back, and the eight-seater Tourer, which is ideal for larger families.

It’s the Tourer we were more interested in and to test its abilities on all kinds of roads we headed to the rarified air of the far distant Northern Cape around Garies to discover back roads, crazy-steep passes, hidden settlements and the essence of ‘out there’.

Out on the N7, heading towards Namibia, it became immediately obvious that there simply isn’t anything on the market that comes close for stressless, graceful progress. The Tourer, with its 2L turbo-diesel, is a consummate distance-eater, and with 140kW and 440Nm on tap there’s plenty in the tail to deliver a surprise sting or two to the manne in their double-cabs. That turbo-diesel will go down in history one day as an alltime great – muscular, frugal and crazy-good, especially when mated to the silky 9G-Tronic automatic transmission. It is simply unchallenged as a long-distance expert.

Inside, of course, the Tourer is exceptional: comfy, space for eight with – in our opinion – a good balance of necessary safety and infotainment tech without the full V-Class suite of aids. Both sliding doors are automatic, and if that sounds like too much, try being on holiday with six in the back and see how valuable those doors become.

Up the N7 and around Garies, we found a garden. But a wild one. Turning off, we headed into the granite interior and the passes became alien, other-worldly landscapes that are bigger and more frightening than the main route byways. The Tourer doubled down and coped masterfully, with the chassis, suspension and drive setup easily the measure of the landscape. It’s in terrain like this that you appreciate thorough research and development, knowing that your chosen wheels have 140 years of experience to draw on.

Hours later, far from the madding crowd, we climbed out, listened to the quiet, hiked across the veld and breathed in. This is what touring is all about. Back on the tar, the turbo-diesel dug deep and the overall competence of the Vito shone once again. It is genuinely a complete package, a commanding cruiser, by turns whisper-quiet and restful, then forceful and authoritative when overtaking. And efficient.

As the sun set and Springbok appeared in the heat haze, the onboard monitor suggested 7.6L/100km, astonishing for a van as muscular and commodious as this. The Vito Tourer Select had proven to be practical, luxurious and adaptable enough for every lifestyle. A van for all seasons, for all reasons. V

For more information, visit mercedes-benz.co.za.

The post Van Life Vibes appeared first on Stellenbosch Visio.

To think I almost walked right by them. Then again, it’s easy to get distracted on Nosy Be. It’s the largest island of an archipelago scattered off the north-western coast of Madagascar, and from it there’s never a shortage of glorious views. As we walked along the forested path through Lokobe National Park, my gaze was firmly on the Indian Ocean to my right. Here, lush slopes tumble into an impossibly blue sea, where fishing dhows tack against the monsoon winds blowing out of the north-west.

Luckily, the walking guide who joined us at the park office had his eyes on the forest canopy and quickly called us to a halt. I turned my gaze to the boughs, where six pairs of avocado-coloured eyes stared down at me from faces as black as coal. I had been on Nosy Be barely an hour and already we had found our first lemurs.

When it comes to African tourism, Madagascar has long been something of an outlier, its outdated infrastructure and a lack of luxury options keeping numbers low. That’s still partly the case, though in the past decade a clutch of boutique operators has made the world’s fourth-largest island more accessible.

Most travellers start in the highland capital of Antananarivo, a ramshackle yet charming city that mixes French finesse with Malagasy flavours. Visit the rebuilt Rova palace and wander vibrant city markets, but also tap into the city’s surprisingly good galleries and design-led boutiques.

From ‘Tana’ the choice is yours. Head south-west for baobab forests, Isalo’s canyons and the fishing villages of Ifaty and Anakao. To the west, the otherworldly Tsingy de Bemaraha rises in limestone cathedrals and knife-edged ridges. East brings you to Île Sainte-Marie and fly-in lodges that offer the last word in Robinson Crusoe-style luxury. But wherever they may go, travellers – myself included – arrive with the hope of spotting Madagascar’s enigmatic, endemic lemurs.

Heading north, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more appealing island than Nosy Be. There’s a cacophony of tuk-tuks and scooters on the streets of Hell-Ville, the largest town, as we drive through to Lokobe, but you could easily escape to quieter parts. Constance Tsarabanjina is just a few hours away by boat and promises plenty of island-style peace and quiet, while hotels on Nosy Be’s west coast offer coastal charm and a wealth of activities.

That makes the island something of a Goldilocks option, allowing you to alternate between spending time on the beach and discovering local colour, from historic landmarks to markets where baskets are packed with wild-caught prawns and the scent of fresh vanilla hangs heady in the air. Unlike Mauritius, where the experience can feel somewhat sanitised, Nosy Be wears its dusty, bustling heart on its sleeve.

It’s an island with plenty of history too. It’s home to one of Madagascar’s oldest Catholic churches, while the lateen sails of fishing dhows and the island’s mosques – the oldest dating to around 1700 – tell of the Islamic traders that have long sailed these waters.

Drive the ring road that runs through lush hillsides and you’ll marvel at the ostentatious yellow and green flowers littering the roadside, vagabonds that have escaped from the island’s ylang-ylang plantations. Nosy Be is famed for producing a significant share of Madagascar’s ylang-ylang – a key ingredient in perfumes – and although today the industry is much diminished, it is still possible to stop in at working distilleries to learn more about this fragrant essential oil.

On the road to Lokobe, Société des Produits à Parfums de Madagascar delves into the island’s distilling history. Adjoining it, a wildlife park offers close-up encounters with an array of island wildlife.

The experience is a little wilder in Lokobe National Park. There, a trio of steep walking trails will test your resolve in the high humidity, but are worth the effort to explore both the idyllic coastline and the tropical forest. And as I discovered, for the best chance of spotting the three species of lemur found here – black, mouse and sportive – you’ll want to request a guide, who can lead you down tiny forest trails in search of lemurs, birds and Henkel’s leaf-tailed geckos that can grow to 30cm long!

It’s hard work hiking up humid mountain paths, though, so by evening I’d found myself on the golden sands out front of the Palm Beach Resort & Spa, a cold ‘Three Horses’ beer in hand. West-facing for the sunset and with gloriously warm waters begging for a swim, it’s an excellent base for exploring the island.

The next morning I was up at sunrise, ready to hop onto a high- powered speedboat for the 50km, 90-minute journey to Nosy Iranja.

If you ask ChatGPT to conjure up an image of the perfect tropical isle, it might just come up with this one: two forested islands linked by a spit of blinding white sand that is swallowed twice a day by the rising tide. But visit Nosy Iranja at low tide and you can meander the kilometre-long isthmus and take a dip in the rising tidal water. After lunch – beachfront restaurants serve up platters of local lobster, fish and prawns – hike the hill beyond to the colonial-era lighthouse for panoramic views.
On the way home, sit back and watch fishing dhows tacking out to sea for the night, their hand-sewn sails billowing in the freshening wind.

My days on Nosy Be roll by in familiar fashion, ebbing and flowing like the tides as I blend days on the beach with exploring the islands.

The next day, just 20 minutes from Palm Beach, our outrigger speedboat slows to an idle and we jump overboard with masks pulled tight. Though there’s no coral in this corner of the archipelago, the sandy beds and sea grasses of the Ambohibe Turtle Reserve attract hungry green turtles that don’t mind snorkellers swimming alongside them.

On my last evening, I took a ride to the summit of Mont Passot, the high point of Nosy Be, for glorious views out over the archipelago and a real sense of the volcanic history of these islands. Speak nicely to the driver and he’ll point out some of the 12 lakes on the island, all of which are home to healthy populations of Nile crocodiles.

The road winds upward through teak forests and past smallholdings planted with a cornucopia of fresh produce. At the summit, a babble of languages showed the global appeal of Nosy Be. In the last golden glow, it wasn’t hard to see why. On this island of ylang-ylang-scented air, I’d found easy days, warm seas and a steady run of small discoveries. And, of course, the lemurs I’d been hoping for.

MADAGASCAR’S AFRICAN CAVIAR

In the highlands of Madagascar, far from the coastal resorts and rainforest reserves, a pioneering aquaculture project has quietly placed the island on the global luxury map.

Rova Caviar was established in 2017 and is Africa’s first and only producer of farmed sturgeon caviar. At an altitude of 1 400m, in the pristine waters of Lake Mantasoa, a variety of sturgeon species are raised in dozens of open-water pens to produce a choice of caviars.

The result is a delicacy that now graces the menus of high-end restaurants across Europe and South Africa, where the Kasnodar brand is especially popular. Beyond its gastronomic credentials, Rova represents African and French innovation, and is a reminder that the island’s luxury story goes far beyond its famous beaches and baobabs.

TRAVEL ADVISOR

GETTING THERE: Airlink offers one direct flight per week from Johannesburg to Fascene Airport on Nosy Be, as well as four flights per week to Antananarivo. Domestic flights connect daily to Nosy Be.

WHERE TO STAY: Palm Beach Resort & Spa on Nosy Be’s west coast. If you’re visiting ‘Tana’, the Radisson Blu Antananarivo Waterfront is just 30 minutes’ drive from the airport and the smartest address in town.

VISA: South African passport holders can obtain an eVisa before departure (from $10) or a visa on arrival.

Visit evisamada-mg.com.

The post Land of Lemurs and Ylang-Ylang appeared first on Stellenbosch Visio.

THE SKIES ARE GREY, the low-hanging clouds pregnant with rain, as my Air Tanzania flight drops down towards Arusha. As we bank and line up with the runway, the clouds part briefly, revealing the shining dome of Mount Kilimanjaro glistening in the sunlight.

“You saw Kili? That means you will have good luck!” says my driver with a grin as we turn onto the road leading from the airport to Arusha. Whether he’s for real or merely working a smile from a weary traveller, it’s hard to tell, but I’ll never refuse a free dose of good fortune. Not when I’ve flown halfway across Africa to witness one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on the planet.

The vast, open plains and winding rivers of the iconic Serengeti National Park attract safari travellers from around the world. But nearly every journey to one of the globe’s most famous wilderness areas begins here, beneath the towering peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru. Arusha serves as the gateway to the East African safari circuit and is a charming little town where it’s well worth spending a day or two to catch your breath. After dropping my bags at Legendary Lodge, a lovely boutique hotel on a historic coffee estate, I set out to explore.

Arusha is lively and lush in the dry season, the bustling edges of the city softened by the vibrant purple blossoms of jacaranda trees. First stop? The Cultural Heritage Gallery. But walk right past the market of predictable carvings and head for the gallery itself, a vast spiralling space inspired by New York’s Guggenheim and brimming with art from across Africa.

There’s a section dedicated to Kenyan painter and sculptor Mike Ghaui, but also look for the signature works by influential Tanzanian artist Edward Tingatinga.

For a break from the hustle and bustle, the Arusha Coffee Estate is worth a visit for a fine cup in the courtyard, as is the Shanga workshop, a social enterprise offering glassware, jewellery and fabric made by the town’s disabled community.

More Than the Serengeti

While Serengeti National Park claims much of the limelight, the region surrounding Arusha is home to a network of remarkable parks and ecosystems. The Ngorongoro Crater is one of seven World Heritage Sites in Tanzania and is arguably as famous as the Serengeti. However, within just a few hours’ drive of Arusha you could as easily discover the tree-climbing lions and flamingo flocks of Lake Manyara, the vast elephant herds of Tarangire or the myriad community conservation areas that protect the ancient pathways supporting the famous migrations of East Africa. My journey begins in a little-known concession making a big impact.

With a focus on community, conservation and a more mindful approach to safari, Chem Chem’s three character-filled camps share a 20 000ha private concession that has helped to revive the Kwakuchinja corridor linking Tarangire and Lake Manyara national parks – a vital piece in the jigsaw puzzle of the Great Migration.

Alongside the intimate Little Chem Chem and exclusive-use Forest Lodge, Chem Chem Lodge offers eight airy tented suites set among a forest of palm and acacia trees, where raised boardwalks meander between grassland and forest to connect the canvas-and-stone villas that gaze out over open plains.

Lake Manyara sparkles in the distance, attracting a myriad of birdlife to the area too. It’s the kind of place where giraffes might nibble the acacias at the edge of the deck or a herd of zebras thunder past as you make your way to the spa. Wellness is central to the Chem Chem experience, but not solely in the spa.

Often billed as the home of the ‘Slow Safari’, Chem Chem focuses on being present in the landscape, whether on a game drive or enjoying a walking safari close to the lodge.

It’s an environment where you can spend an hour watching a waterhole for Fischer’s lovebirds or admire a long-crested eagle staring imperiously down from a treetop perch.

Our last morning began with a barefoot meditation: “Feel your toes. Thank your legs for carrying you. Notice the wind,” suggested our guide, Salum Mpapa. With our eyes closed, our senses were heightened, every birdsong seeming much louder, making our walk along the shores of Lake Manyara all the more vivid. In a landscape renowned for more, Chem Chem encourages guests to savour the small delights.

Now that we were thoroughly grounded in the landscape of East Africa, it was time for the main event. After an hour’s flight to the north, the wheels of our Cessna Grand Caravan skidded down onto a strip in the far reaches of the Serengeti. A place spoken of in hushed tones when it comes to finding the best migration game-viewing in the Serengeti: the Lamai Wedge.

A triangle formed by the winding Mara River and the border with Kenya, the Lamai Wedge is the Serengeti you’ve seen on screen: a landscape of wide grassy plains filled with sinuous lines of wildebeest herds stretching to the horizon. Thomson’s gazelles dance skittishly between them, while small families of Defassa waterbuck – minus the white ‘toilet seat’ we’d recognise in southern Africa – eland and topi find space amid the masses. Gazing out, it’s a landscape where the grasslands are dotted with the umbrella canopies of acacia-like balanites, ubiquitous trees where leopards may stash their gazelles or prides of lions pant in the daytime heat.

Lamai plays host to a clutch of luxury lodges that offer the epitome of safari comfort, but for a more authentic experience, I opted for a tented camp that moves, like the herds, with the seasons. Legendary Expeditions’ Nyasi Migration Camp takes full advantage of the clockwise migration, beginning the year in the southern grasslands as the wildebeest calve and then tracking the herds as they follow the rains and graze northwards. By September, this elegant mobile camp is pitched on a hillside in the Lamai Wedge, near the Mara River and in an ideal position for witnessing the Great Migration.

It’s a camp that’s low-key yet comfortable, with canvas tents – complete with en-suite showers where hot water comes courtesy of wood-fired boilers – tucked into the woodland. The camp is entirely unfenced and it’s not unusual for nights to be disturbed by the honking of wildebeest or the whoop of hyenas just beyond the canvas. Pitched among the suites are a handful of dining tents, each allocated to a guest to ensure complete privacy while on safari. Families and couples will love it.

And unlike most camps, which charge a hefty premium for the privilege, guests at Nyasi enjoy their own private vehicle, allowing them to set the pace for daily game drives. On our first evening, we ventured out onto the plains to soak in the sheer enormity of the landscape, savouring the russet tones of sunset on the grasslands. The following morning, we had a river crossing in our sights.

Witnessing a herd crossing the Mara River is a process carefully managed by the guides, with vehicles waiting at specific crossing points and maintaining a safe distance from the river as the herds gather and debate whether to attempt the treacherous crossing. He who dares, wins. Or gets eaten. Fortunately, for us at least, the overnight rain on our side of the Mara River was far too tempting for the herds to resist, and at crossing #7 a herd of approximately 8 000 wildebeest took the plunge into the river.

For the next half hour, we watched in awe – mingled with a touch of horror – as the wildebeest swam for their lives, eyes bulging and lungs heaving, as crocodiles sank beneath the surface to pick off the slowest. The wildebeest that made it across and up the steep sandy banks were doubly fortunate; today there were no lions lying in wait, but often even the shore offers no sanctuary. In the river, the crocodiles concealed their kill in the branches of a sunken tree and returned for another. It was nature, red in tooth and claw, and it lived up to every expectation I had.

That afternoon we left the river behind and set off in search of birds. While the massed herds are a highlight, birders will be as thrilled by the abundance of birdlife in the Serengeti. Within just a few hours, we spotted little bee-eaters and yellow-throated longclaws, along with bare-faced go-away-birds and dark chanting goshawks. From the branches of balanites trees, black-chested snake eagles and Montagu harriers glared down at us. High above, scanning a landscape abundant with easy meals, white-headed and Rüppell’s vultures floated on the thermals.

And so the days unfurled like the grasslands themselves. We discussed a trip to the southern bank, but with a bridge washed away at Kogatende, it would entail a lengthy round trip. And besides, who would want to waste a minute in the Lamai Wedge? Not me.

As my Cessna took off, its nose pointed south towards Arusha, the true scale of the Great Migration unfolded below. Wildebeest streamed across the landscape like an army of ants on the march. On the fringes, zebras and Thomson’s gazelles went along for the ride, and I swear I caught sight of a lioness down there in hot pursuit. Perhaps my driver had been right after all. The snows of Kilimanjaro had brought me no end of good fortune.

Nature’s Endless Cycle

Want to see the Great Migration? Where you go depends on when you plan to travel.

• JANUARY–MARCH: CALVING SEASON In the lush grasslands of the southern Serengeti, near Ndutu, thousands of calves are born, attracting predators and providing memorable sightings.
• APRIL–JUNE: HEADING NORTH The herds move through the central Serengeti to the western corridor, with quieter safaris and dramatic Grumeti River crossings.
• JULY–SEPTEMBER: MARA RIVER CROSSINGS The migration peaks with river crossings into the Lamai Wedge and north into Kenya’s Maasai Mara.
• OCTOBER–DECEMBER: RETURNING SOUTH As rains fall in the south, the herds journey back through the central Serengeti towards Ndutu, completing the cycle.

The post Of Wildebeest and Wild Spaces appeared first on Stellenbosch Visio.

Disbelief. Mixed, of course, with a generous dose of awe and wonder. Yet, as my heavy polar boots crunched down onto the graded blue ice of Novo runway, my overriding emotion was disbelief. After years of dreaming, months of planning and weeks of waiting to see if the travel arrangements would fall into place, here I was. Boots down on my seventh continent. A mile of ice beneath my soles and a week to explore a place I never imagined I would experience.

Antarctic tourism has boomed over the past two decades, driven largely by expedition ships that carry more tourists than ever to the Antarctic Peninsula. Sailing from Ushuaia in southern Argentina, ships brave the Drake Passage to explore the finger of Antarctica reaching north. During the 2023–2024 season, more than 120 000 tourists visited Antarctica, most aboard cruise ships skirting the Peninsula. Some 80 000 of them were fortunate enough to step ashore, but how many travellers had the privilege of visiting the ‘deep-field’ ice sheets of Antarctica?

Less than 1% of Antarctic tourists visits the interior of the continent, and though numbers will always remain low due to the remote and hostile environment, the launch of Ultima Antarctic Expeditions in 2024 looks to be a game-changer for deep-field Antarctic tourism.

White Desert pioneered the concept of fly-in adventures to Antarctica in the early 2000s, whisking affluent travellers south in a private jet. Ultima takes a slightly different approach. With decades of experience in Antarctic logistics as it helps to maintain national polar research stations on the continent, Ultima combines scientific programme support with sustainable tourism in an extraordinary new flying adventure that transports travellers from the Mother City to Antarctica’s Queen Maud Land in just six hours.

Which is how I found myself wrestling into cold-weather gear amid the roar of an Ilyushin-76 TD-90 as it descended through a clear blue sky towards Novo runway. Around us were dozens of Indian scientists all, like me, grinning broadly as we pulled on thermal layers, down jackets and heavy boots. Pavel, the indefatigable cabin attendant looking after what was something between a passenger plane and a cargo hold, rushed around assisting where he could. The burly Russian engineers up front sat eating pot noodles while checking their gauges.

And then we were down. The doors swung open and the ladder locked into place. One small step, and the ice crunched beneath my boots. I won’t lie; there were some tears. Antarctica will do that to you.

With runway photos taken and bags loaded, we set off for Ultima’s Oasis Camp, just a half-hour drive from the runway. Perched on the rocks of the Schirmacher Oasis – free of ice even in the depths of winter – this is an oasis of a different sort. It is also an oasis of comfort in the depths of the world’s driest, coldest and windiest continent. We would experience all three elements in the week to come, but upon arrival the welcome couldn’t have been warmer, with a friendly team of chefs, hosts and guides ready to help us settle in.

Ultima’s Oasis Camp is spread across three buildings that contain both sleeping and living quarters. While they may appear simple from the outside, hunkered down against the weather, they are remarkably comfortable indoors. Bedrooms come with warm down duvets – and hot water bottles too – while the communal lounge area boasts glorious picture windows for long hours of gazing out at the landscape. Bathrooms are shared and functional, but offer the Antarctic luxury of hot showers.

A few steps along snow-lined boardwalks take you to the dining area and communal lounge, where chef Jesse Wollenschlaeger creates a remarkable array of dining experiences throughout our days on the ice. When the weather is fine – which means the mercury’s near zero – it might involve a braai on the deck. When a storm rolls in and the temperature drops to -20°C with wind chill, expect hearty dishes with a contemporary spin. Think dishes of duck and Camembert pie, a mezze platter with beetroot hummus and, on another day, prawn and cabbage potstickers. One evening features salmon in an umami- packed Asian sauce. Paired with Stellenbosch wines and craft beer from Cape Town, it’s easy to forget exactly where you are.

Until you look out the window and are suddenly reminded that you’re dining in a landscape of endless ice and rock. This may sound like a terra incognita, a vast white nothingness, unless you have skilled guides to bring the ice to life.

To lead its various itineraries, ranging from one to seven days, Ultima employs some of the best guides in the business. Their years of experience in the polar latitudes, both north and south of the equator, transform a simple wander across the surrounding ice fields into a deep dive into polar ecosystems. From lichen to frozen air bubbles, the minutiae of deep-field Antarctica add layers of discovery to every outing. In weather fine or foul, we’d layer up in our thermal gear – Ultima supplies all the heavy-duty polar clothing required – and tackle the peaks surrounding Oasis Camp, admiring distant ice fields.

The deep-field ice sheets of Antarctica offer a remarkable level of raw beauty, but the harsh environment means that little life can survive so far from the ocean. With the sea – and feeding grounds – more than 80km away, only a handful of bird species are hardy enough to endure here. On cliffs near Oasis Camp we observe tiny Wilson’s storm petrels diving and swooping to their rocky nests. South polar skuas, with their hooked beaks and scavenging habits, easily find a home wherever there are easy pickings, making them a regular sight at scientific bases. Adélie penguins are occasional, curious visitors.

But there’s one bird that is the undoubted star of Antarctica: the emperor penguin.
Most of Ultima’s longer itineraries include a flying visit to nearby penguin colonies. An exhilarating flight in a Twin Otter whisks travellers to the edge of the sea ice and then it’s just a short hike to admire these supremely elegant polar birds. The excursion takes a day; roughly an hour at the colony is bookended by dramatic flights across the Antarctic landscape.

Every visit is closely monitored and controlled to ensure there is no adverse impact on the penguin colonies. Ultima, like all members of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO), adheres to strict protocols during trips where birdlife may be encountered, ensuring that boots are thoroughly disinfected and guests maintain a safe distance from the wildlife at all times.

Ultima’s longer itineraries also feature a two-day adventure to the South Pole aboard a refurbished Basler BT-67 ski-plane, as well as flying excursions to the stunning Drygalski Mountains.

But even the shorter itineraries offer no shortage of ways to fill your days at Oasis Camp. One of the longer hikes takes travellers off the escarpment to explore the myriad hues of a tunnel carved out of the ice shelf by time and meltwater, while a journey across the ice sheet unveils towering glaciers and ice lakes. It’s a landscape both breathtaking and beguiling – unearthly in its beauty yet staggering in its hostility. How Shackleton, Scott and Amundsen managed to endure, I will never understand

When Shackleton left Endurance at the bottom of the Weddell Sea, it took him years to reach home by ship. My ride, on the other hand, was already heading south out of Cape Town to collect me. The Ilyushin was on its way, but after a taste of terra incognita, I wasn’t ready to leave.

DON’T FORGET TO PACK…

• THIN INNER GLOVES: Protect your fingers while taking photographs outdoors.
• WARM, MOISTURE-WICKING SOCKS: The best option for the ice boots Ultima supplies.
• HIGH-SPF SUNSCREEN AND LIP BALM: Sun and wind burn happens easily on the ice.
• PEAK CAP AND POLARISING SUNGLASSES: The glare off the ice is blinding, even on cloudy days.
• BUFF: For protecting your nose and lips from the sun and wind.
• THERMAL LAYERS: Being able to layer up and down is essential.

ULTIMA DAY EXPEDITION

If your pocket doesn’t allow for a week on the ice, Ultima’s 24-hour adventure offers a more accessible experience. This compact journey leaves Cape Town in the morning and arrives at Novo in the mid-afternoon. While the Ilyushin offloads and pilots rest, travellers spend about 10 hours on the ice, exploring ice tunnels and glaciers while soaking in the beauty of the ice fields and the midnight sun, before flying back to Cape Town. It’s a 24-hour experience you won’t forget.

NEED TO KNOW

• Ultima Antarctic Expeditions’ next season runs from November 2025 to January 2026.
• Emperor penguin colony visits are usually only possible in November and December.
• Expeditions range from one to seven days and include flights, accommodation, meals, excursions in Antarctica and the services of highly qualified guides.
• Cold-weather gear is provided.
• Costs range from $12 000 for the 24-hour Ultima Day to $85 000 for the eight-day South Pole and Emperor Penguin Expedition.

Visit ultima-antarcticexpeditions.com for more.

The post To the End of the Earth appeared first on Stellenbosch Visio.