IT SEEMS ONLY FITTING that, just as the culverts and fields of the Winelands were bursting into life with a flush of early-summer lilies, chef Peter Tempelhoff and his team were putting the finishing touches to one of the most exciting new restaurants to open in the Cape in recent months. Set in the werf building on the Boschendal estate, the arrival of Arum marks a welcome rejuvenation of this historic space on an estate that is alive with new energy.

“The werf is such an emblematic building on one of the Cape’s oldest farms and in such a beautiful location,” says Peter. “So when the opportunity came onto our radar, we knew we had to take it.”

Perhaps more importantly, the arrival of Arum has infused the building – once Boschendal’s wine cellar – with a new sense of cohesion. In recent years, as successive chefs and restaurant concepts have waxed and waned, the werf has been divided into restaurants, retail outlets and wine-tasting venues.

“With Arum we wanted to bring the space back together again. But because of the size of the building and its heritage status, we had to treat it like an art gallery,” Peter explains.

It was a brief beautifully executed by Rotem Shachar and Megan Bond of MR. Design Studio, working alongside architect Jacques Mouton and in collaboration with Tristan du Plessis.

Step inside and your eye immediately goes to a striking vine installation. Created by Charles Haupt of Bronze Age Studio, it subtly frames the private dining area set beneath a contemporary echo of the growing tunnels at Boschendal.

Continue through into the Heritage Room, where a glass-walled fireplace clad in a ceramic ‘cabbage’ – you’ll have to use some imagination here – separates this cosy dining space from the Garden Room. In this space there’s little need for distraction, thanks to glorious views across the Werf Food Garden, where paths meander between beds heavy with the flush of summer growth. Don’t be surprised to see chefs wandering out from the kitchen, with prep bowls in hand, to harvest fresh greens for service.

While the Garden Room allows the view to take centre stage, the redesign has introduced a few subtle improvements. Hand-crafted wooden furniture aligns with the contemporary farm aesthetic, while wooden acoustic ceiling panels and new floor tiles add warmth, texture and a sense of tranquillity to the space that once felt a little stark and sterile.

But the highlight is still to come. Run your fingers along the leather-bound handrail that leads you into the ‘animal’ section of the restaurant. Vegetarians, look away now, for here the centrepiece is a towering dry-ageing cabinet, with hefty sides of prime rib on display for diners to admire.

Look left and you’ll see Duroc pork from Boschendal’s pastures ageing for up to three weeks to improve texture. To the right, free-range ducks from the farm hang for up to 14 days. On the surrounding shelves, jars of pickles and fermented goods mean that any surplus fresh produce doesn’t go to waste.

“We’re using everything we can from the garden. It’s central to everything we do; the menu is designed around it,” says Peter.

Below the ageing space, the Arum bar pays homage to the Boschendal herds. The stark-white counter – an eye-catching centrepiece by artist Driaan Claassen – is framed by leather-clad banquettes and on the wall hang oil-on-canvas portraits of a stately Angus and a portly Duroc by Jaco van Schalkwyk.

It’s a subtle yet memorable nod to the way in which the fields and pastures of Boschendal inform the menu at Arum

Whereas Peter was involved in the conception of the restaurant’s space, day-to-day responsibility for its offerings lies with executive chef Travis Finch, who brings both local sensibility and global experience to the role.

After cutting his teeth alongside Peter at The Greenhouse at The Cellars-Hohenort, Travis went on to cook at The Connaught in London and Melbourne’s acclaimed Vue de Monde, before spending years as a private chef aboard luxury yachts.

“But when Peter gave me a call and explained the idea for Arum, it definitely piqued my interest,” says Travis. “The Black Angus, the Duroc pigs, the vegetable gardens. I fell in love with the concept and what we were going to try to achieve here.” He packed his bags in London and flew home.

For Travis, the soul of Arum lies beyond the restaurant, in the bountiful fields of Boschendal. “We want that sense of abundance to be reflected on the menu,” he says. “We are a farm-to-fire restaurant, so we’re trying to use as much as possible from the farm. It’s a process, it takes time, but already we’ve moved forward in leaps and bounds.”

While both starters and main dishes – including the signature cuts of beef – are primarily meat-focused, “there’s an abundance of vegetables on the menu,” remarks Travis. “I want the sides and snacks to really concentrate on the fresh produce coming out of the garden.”

A standout here is the tomato dish, available as a ‘snack’ plate, which is beguiling in its bold simplicity: garden tomatoes, salsa verde and pickled jalapeño coming together effortlessly. Served with excellent focaccia, it’s a fine introduction to what is to come.

Delving further into the menu, starters and mains vary in provenance and inspiration. Cape octopus is superb, here with crispy guanciale, smoked corn and brown butter. Beef tartare features Black Angus from the farm, while the hot-smoked Lourensford trout arrives with kohlrabi and chirizu sauce.

Vegetarian diners will be charmed by the plate of ricotta gnudi, elevated by the charred Romanesco and burnt leeks, but beef aficionados need look no further than the selection of cuts from the ageing fridge. And here’s my advice: don’t go for your usual choice. While the 21-day fillet won’t disappoint, the more interesting option is in the niche cuts specially sourced from older animals. Think bone-in sirloin that’s been hanging for over a month or a prime rib that’s been maturing for two. “Younger animals are tender, but they don’t have the layers of flavour that you get with older animals,” explains Travis. “The cow has a story to tell and that comes through in the meat. You have to be patient in the way that you dry age the meat, because you’re dancing the line between tenderness and flavour.”

And to drink?

Although Arum offers a good selection of Boschendal wines – by the bottle and the glass – it’s the bespoke series of Arum wines that I found most interesting. From a selection of 40 cultivars, acclaimed sommelier – and beverage director of the Fyn Group – Jennifer Hugé narrowed it down to just five uncommon cultivars that are offered exclusively at Arum. A standout is the Sémillon, sourced from the La Colline vineyard in the Franschhoek Valley. The unoaked Cinsault made perfect sense for the warm days in the valley – “It has brightness and purity of fruit,” says Jennifer – while the Mourvèdre from old bush vines is the perfect foil for the meat-forward menu.

Jennifer also entertains wine-lovers with a rare bottling of Alicante Bouschet. “Alicante Bouschet is a crossing of Petit Bouschet and Grenache. Petit Bouschet can be quite big and voluptuous, while Grenache brings brightness and femininity, which I really enjoy,” she says. “It’s a big wine, but still very easy to drink, with a lot of complexity.” Complex yet approachable. Bold in vision but unpretentious in execution. Arum is a restaurant that draws deeply from the fields of Boschendal and the talent behind the pass to create a restaurant that is both globally inspired and firmly rooted in the Winelands. V

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The trophy-winning wines include Vilafonté’s red blends, the Cabernet Sauvignon-led Series C 2019 and the Malbec-led Series M 2019, as well as Perdeberg’s Endura Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc 2022.

Vilafonté received the highest honour as Outstanding Wine Producer along with the Red Wine Producer Trophy, while Perdeberg was awarded the IWSC Old Vine Trophy.

These accomplishments not only celebrate South African winemaking excellence, but also highlight the exceptional quality coming from our local vineyards. Cheers to Vilafonté and Perdeberg for raising the bar in the world of wine!

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The showcase events will take place on 22 August in Cape Town at the Cape Town International Conference Centre, and on 28 August at the Nedbank Atrium in — both offering wine enthusiasts the opportunity to sample some of South Africa’s most exclusive wines while experiencing a truly unique tasting journey.

“At Nedbank, we’re committed to using technology to enhance experiences across all aspects of life,’ says Khensani Nobanda, Nedbank’s Group Executive for Marketing and Corporate Affairs. “Just as we’re innovating in digital banking to make financial services more accessible and enjoyable, these Nedbank-sponsored CWG Showcase events apply the same principle to wine appreciation, making wine appreciation more accessible and democratising the wine experience for all attendees.”

The AI-powered visual guides form the basis of this year’s ‘Art of Wine’ theme, allowing attendees to understand and discuss wine on a deeper level, regardless of their prior knowledge. The concept is backed by Massachusetts Institute of Technology research, which shows that the brain processes visual information 60 000 times faster than text. Each showcased wine will be presented alongside an AI-generated artwork that serves as a visual tasting map, allowing attendees to instantly recognise and describe the wine’s flavour notes.

“Whether it’s the sharp taste of grapefruit in a sauvignon blanc or the rich fruitiness of a Stellenbosch pinotage, these visual guides will enable attendees to fully immerse themselves in the Art of Wine,” Nobanda explains. “It’s like having a wine expert right there with you, guiding your tasting experience.”

Beyond this innovative tasting experience, the annual CWG Auction and Showcase events serve a crucial purpose in supporting the development of the South African wine industry. All proceeds from the showcases go towards the Cape Winemakers Guild Protégé Programme, which provides opportunities for talented individuals from historically disadvantaged backgrounds to pursue careers in winemaking.

“Nedbank’s support of the Protégé Programme is instrumental in nurturing a diverse and skilled new generation of winemakers,” Nobanda adds. “So we’re not just celebrating great wine – we’re investing in the future of South African winemaking.”

For event and ticket information, visit capewinemakersguild.com

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Join us as we toast to World Whiskey Day with a special treat for our readers! Enter the giveaway via our Instagram page here, and stand a chance to win a bottle of Peaky Blinder Irish Whiskey alongside a copy of our Autumn issue. Winner announced Saturday, 18 May. Let the celebration begin!

More about Sadler’s Peaky Blinder Irish Whiskey

Sadler’s Peaky Blinder Irish Whiskey is a bold, but exceptionally smooth, tripe distilled blended Irish whiskey made from an exceptional blend of grain and single malt Irish whiskey aged in bourbon casks.

According to Jazz Adams, the Western Cape Sales Manager for Peaky Blinder Irish Whiskey at Halewood South Africa, Irish whiskey is typically made from three primary ingredients: malted and unmalted barley, water, and yeast. The use of both malted and unmalted barley contributes to the distinctive smoothness and complexity of Irish whiskey.

A hallmark of many Irish whiskeys is triple distillation, says Jazz. Unlike some Scotch whiskies that undergo only two rounds of distillation, the triple distillation process in Ireland is believed to create a smoother, lighter spirit. This meticulous approach reflects the dedication to producing a refined and approachable whiskey.

Irish whiskey is often aged in a variety of casks, including ex-bourbon, sherry, and wine casks. The maturation process takes place in the cool, damp cellars of Irish distilleries, allowing the whiskey to absorb the unique characteristics of the wood and develop a nuanced flavour profile.

How to Drink

Pour your whiskey gently. A standard pour is about 30-60ml, but you can adjust it according to your preference. Hold the glass at the base to avoid warming the whiskey with your hands.

Swirl the whiskey gently in your glass and bring it up to your nose. Inhale the aromas, taking note of the various scents. Peaky Blinder Irish Whiskey offers delightful notes of honey, malt, and subtle fruit, making it a perfect summer sipper.

Take small sips and let the whiskey rest on your palate for a moment before swallowing. This allows the flavours to unfold. Notice the balance of sweetness, spice, and fruitiness that Peaky Blinder Irish Whiskey offers. As the whiskey warms in your mouth, you’ll experience its complexity.

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Top Winemakers

Bruwer Raats, of Raats Family Wines, picked up Atkin’s Winemaker of the Year.

Etienne Le Riche, of the eponymous Le Riche Wines outside Stellenbosch, is this year’s Winemaking Legend.

Top Scoring Wines

The Boschkloof Epilogue Syrah 2021 scored a full 100 points, followed by Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020 and the Porseleinberg Syrah 2021 scoring 99 points. Alheit Vineyards’ Huilkrans 2022 Chenin Blanc picked up the highest score for a white wine of 99 points.

2023 Winners

• Winemaker of the Year: Bruwer Raats of Raats Family Wines.
• Young Winemaker of the Year: Marelise Niemann of Momento.
• Viticulturist of the Year: Willie Mostert.
• Co-operative of the Year: Daschbosch.
• Winemaking Legend: Etienne Le Riche.
• Best Cellar Door Experience: Blaauwklippen Vineyards.
• Overall White Wine of the Year: 2022 Alheit Vineyards Huilkrans Chenin Blanc, Citrusdal Mountain.
• Overall Red Wine of the Year: 2021 Boschkloof Epilogue Syrah, Stellenbosch.
• Overall Rosé of the Year: 2022 Lievland Liefkoos Rosé, Stellenbosch.
• Overall Sparkling Wine of the Year: 2018 Graham Beck Cuvée Clive, Western Cape.
• Overall Sweet Wine of the Year: 2022 Mullineux Straw Wine, Swartland.
• Overall Fortified Wine of the Year: 2007 Boplaas CWG Auction Reserve Tawny Single Harvest Colheita, Calitzdorp.
• Red Wine Discovery of the Year: 2021 Rall CWG Noa Syrah, Swartland.
• White Wine Discovery of the Year: 2022 Sadie Family Rotsbank, Swartland.
• Sparkling Wine Discovery of the Year: 2009 Graham Beck Artisan Collection Extra Brut 157, Western Cape.
• Best Value White of the Year: 2021 Windmeul Cellar OVP Reserve Chenin Blanc, Paarl.
• Best Value Red of the Year: 2020 Alto Rouge, Stellenbosch.
• Best Value Rosé of the Year: 2022 Noble Hill Mourvèdre Rosé, Simonsberg-Paarl.
• Best Value Sparkling Wine of the Year: NV KWV Laborie Brut, Western Cape.
• Best Value Sweet Wine of the Year: 2023 Van Loveren VRL Special Late Harvest Gewürztraminer, Robertson.
• Best Value Fortified Wine of the Year: NV KWV Cape Classic Tawny, Western Cape.

Get The Report

The 2023 South Africa Report is available online.

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As impressive as Sonny and Irene’s carefully curated decor, lighting and wall art elements, the contemporary menu boasts an impressive diversity of cafe-style classics to suit all tastebuds. Think various breakfast options ranging from healthy to decadent; lunch and dinner items such as butter-poached prawns, market salads and ricotta cappelletti; desserts including burnt custard and a modern take on a banana split; and, of course, a cocktail selection that will leave you grappling to choose.

Stellenbosch Visio chatted to Alison Thomas, Sonny and Irene’s head of operations, to find out more.

Where does the name Sonny and Irene come from?

Sonny and Irene is affectionately named after The Kove Collection’s founder, Paul Kovensky’s grandparents. If you look closely, you will see their wedding photo proudly on display at the bar.

Sitting down at Sonny and Irene, one thing is quite evident: Sea Point’s latest social gem is everything but the average neighbourhood cafe bakery. What was the inspiration behind the restaurant’s look and feel?

This timeless venue communicates a sentimental nod to the past in a modern, fresh way. We have used pops of pink and green pastel hues, and soft marble and oak finishes to create a setting that doesn’t compromise style for comfort. A glance off the street makes it clear that craft and attention to detail are part of the deal, with an open kitchen, bakery and all-too-tempting cocktail bar framing the dining floor. We wanted to create something special. We envisage this to be a place loved by locals and visitors alike – whether it be a morning meeting, a lazy lunch, or an evening of cocktails.

The menu offers everything from breakfast, lunch, dinner and dreamy cocktails. Who’s the chef and culinary team heading the line-up?

The menu has been carefully crafted by executive chef Amber Deetlefs, pastry chef Chris Morriso, and mixologist Marshall Behaein.

Guests can also bring their dogs?

Yes, your furry friends are welcome anytime.

For newbies to Sonny and Irene, what’s not to be missed when opening the menu?

We recently launched the pastry bar because we know how much everyone loves our baked goods. We have made it easier for you to grab and go from our streetside bakery right next door to Sonny and Irene. Our croissants and tarts are definitely top of our list of items to try.

Good to know

Sonny and Irene is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner from Mondays to Sundays, 08:00 to 22:00. The pastry bar opens daily at 07:00. Call 021 745 6600 for more information or book online.

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From vintage cars to one of the world’s most sought-after cognacs. Why Rémy Martin?

I had a deep passion for restoring vintage cars. Then I decided to start an MBA in Luxury Brand Management for Food, Wine & Spirits. During this programme, a lecture was given by the head of the Rémy Martin International Brand Ambassadors team, where I became curious. Why Rémy Martin? Because this House is absolutely unique and uncompromising.

• Rémy Martin is the only major cognac house to have been founded by a wine grower, almost 300 years ago.
• Rémy Martin has been a family business since then, run by two families who share the same values. Therefore, to be part of Rémy Martin is being part of a family.
• Rémy Martin has made the radical choice of Fine Champagne, in 1948, that is the exclusiveness of two crus, Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne, the two most sought-after, which chalky soils grow the most aromatic grapes.
• Rémy Martin has bet on the magic of time, for our eaux-de-vie have an outstanding ageing potential.
• Finally, Rémy Martin has a signature cognac based on harmony thanks to the systematic use of distillation on the lees in small copper stills.

Today, 41 years ago, Rémy Martin XO was created. What gives this cognac its undeniable edge and flair?

Rémy Martin XO is not two simple letters. Rémy Martin XO is an invitation to expand your horizons and live a much richer life. It is an opulent cognac characterised by a rare aromatic complexity made from hundreds of the finest Rémy Martin eaux-de-vie from Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne. The style of XO is elegant and sophisticated, particularly rich and opulent, in a distinguished manner.

Now, what’s your favourite way to enjoy a glass of Rémy Martin XO?

My favourite way of enjoying Rémy Martin XO is on the rocks with a large ice cube as an aperitif or a digestive, where the ice melts, revealing all the complexity of XO. Adding one big ice cube will dilute the cognac and reduce the alcohol percentage, which reveals these aromas while making the taste more refreshing. The goal is that the ice cube melts slowly, revealing new aromas at each step.

Is there a right and wrong way to enjoy cognac?

There is no one particular way of enjoying cognac. We are noticing that consumers are increasingly starting to experiment with cognac and use it in cocktails, rather than positioning it as a stand-alone high-end drink. Hugely versatile, cognac is the perfect drink for a wide range of occasions. By yourself or when socialising, it can be enjoyed in so many ways: neat, on ice, or in a delicious cocktail… The choice is yours! It also makes a perfect accompaniment to a wide variety of dishes. Though each cognac may be unique in profile, the characteristic aromatic complexity of a Rémy Martin Cognac Fine Champagne never fails to surprise.

As the International Brand Ambassador, what’s your main focus?

My job is to train our commercial teams, engage with the existing and future Rémy Martin fans, and inspire through my passion for spirits and cocktails. Every day, I continue to share my love for people, luxury, culture and heritage through my role, while constantly exploring new places to satisfy my thirst for learning.

In layman’s terms, what is cognac?

Cognac is a spirit from the brandy category, made exclusively with grapes that are grown in the Cognac region in France, which are known for their exceptional aromatic quality. The use of the name Cognac is protected under French and international laws. It is an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) and there are three main requirements to satisfy: first, it must be made from specific grape varieties, such as Ugni Blanc. Second, it must be twice distilled in copper pot stills. And third, it must be aged in oak barrels for at least two years.

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Perhaps it was a Dutch thing, but South Africa appears to be the only country in the world with a penchant for historically documenting the evolution of its liquor industry. Thus, no self-respecting local vinophile will be unaware of the fact that wine was first made at the Cape in 1659 – on 2 February, to be exact, thanks to the diary of the first Commander Jan van Riebeeck.

And then, 350 years ago this year, the erstwhile Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC) authorities noted that the Cape’s drinks offering had been expanded to include brandy. For in 1672, on a ship by the name of De Pijl, moored in Table Bay, an unnamed cook distilled 1,000 litres of Cape wine into 130 litres of brandy. Thus a new industry was born at the southern tip of Africa, one to complement the burgeoning wine culture that, within a century of its beginning, was already establishing South Africa as an international force in producing quality elixir from the fruit of the vines planted in these newly discovered but geographically ancient soils.

It would, however, be quite a while before Cape brandy would take its rightful place as a product of distinction and quality. For distilled spirit – in brandy, the result of capturing the condensate of a wine – is known for its warm, fortifying and mellow taste, not to mention an uplifting effect on the mind and soul of the drinker thanks to an alcohol content almost four times that of wine.

Seafarers, such as the 17th- and 18th-century Europeans calling at the Cape on their long and strenuous voyages between northern ports and the Far East, showed a particular fondness for brandy, among other alcoholic spirits. History would have it that on the VOC ships a tot of brandy would be promised to the first sailor who spotted Table Mountain. The lust for brandy, heightened by the exertion and deprivation of a few months at sea, would lead to a cacophony of shrieks as the ship neared the Cape, although most of these throaty calls were driven by a wish for a cup of brandy rather than an actual sighting of land.

It can be safely assumed that since the Cape had now distilled its own brandy, thanks to that intrepid cook on board De Pijl, the early VOC settlement became a more spirited place. Bars and taverns – legal and illicit – did a roaring trade as an ever-increasing amount of Cape wine was dedicated to the distillation of brandy, giving the new generations of settlers, the indigenous population and crews from visiting ships a sharp liquid with which to lift the spirits, unleash their innate boisterousness and add a bit of colour to life at the Cape Colony.

When the British took over from the Dutch in 1795, brandy was – along with wheat, wine and barley – already documented as a staple Cape commodity. The Cape was Dutch again from 1803 to reclamation by the British in 1806, and for the following century various British liquor merchants and producers set about attempting to improve the quality of what they termed ‘boor brandy’. For without any regulations and very sparse guidelines in the distillation process, this locally made hooch was known more for its kick and jolt to the system than for quality and the providing of enjoyment of the cultural kind.

But then along came a hero. True to the visionary and pioneering spirit of a fledgling industry in a New World country, one person arrived to forever change the way brandy was to be made in South Africa, creating a legacy on which the image and status of Cape brandy hangs to this day.

The hero was René Santhagens.

Santhagens

It was the thirst for spirits in the dry northern hinterland of South Africa that initially brought the swaggering Belgian René Santhagens to the country in 1897. He arrived in response to an advertisement for a position at the distillery of South Africa-based entrepreneur Samuel Marks. Here René was appointed distiller at the Eerste Fabrieken Distillery based on the farm Hatherley near Pretoria, where he had to churn out brandy, gin, whisky, mampoer and any other kind of alcohol-intense spirit to whet the dusty throats and lift the souls of the thousands of miners seeking their fortunes in the gold fields of the Transvaal.

But René was not your normal distiller. Yes, he arrived in South Africa with an array of kettles and other equipment, but he had learnt his skill and developed a driven passion for distilling wine into the quality spirit that is French Cognac.

Before heading south from Europe, he had accepted an offer from French aristocrat Marquis de Pellerin de Latouche to work on his farms in the Cognac district in south-western France. Here René rapidly expanded his knowledge of making wine and brandy among the local grape-growers, winemakers and distillers. During his French apprenticeship, he met and fell in love with the Marquis’ daughter Jeanne, who was to become his companion as well as supporter and adviser in the quest to craft the wine of the vine into the pure spirit known as Cognac in France and brandy anywhere else.

René’s sojourn in the Transvaal as distiller was interrupted when the Anglo-Boer War commenced in 1899 and the couple went back to France to wait out the conflict. In 1903, they returned to South Africa and decided to settle in the Cape, where the vineyard-
clad slopes, the mountain ranges and the Mediterranean winemaking climate were more conducive to the production of wine and brandy culture than the country’s northern regions were. Here at the Cape, René was introduced to the only brandy being produced in the region, the so-called Kaapse Dop, which was made from grape husks distilled either in small primitive kettles or giant gin stills. He was appalled.

Sold raw in its most basic form, this brandy contained additives such as sugar, colorants and artificial flavourings. Determined to do better, René dedicated his energies to improving the standards of local liquor and to introducing proper production methods for the making of fine brandy.

He set up shop in 1908 after buying the Oude Molen property next to the old millstream at the foot of the Papegaaiberg in Stellenbosch, where Bosman’s Crossing is today. In time, he and Jeanne revamped the simple, single-storey, tin-roofed house into an impressive double-storey mansion with a thatched roof and imposing gable.

René started producing his French-style brandies in 1910, becoming the first man to make brandy in South Africa according to the age-old traditions of Cognac. It was the quality of René’s own product, as well as his personal influence and commitment to a high standard of brandy, that would change the face of this industry forever.

Types of brandy

Blended: A brandy with a minimum of 30% potstill component, aged for three years in barrel. The balance is made up of unmatured wine spirit. Minimum alcohol: 43%.

Vintage: 30–80% potstill brandy, 70–20% unmatured wine spirit. Aged in wood for minimum eight years. Minimum alcohol: 38%.

Potstill: 100% potstill aged for at least three years in wood. Minimum alcohol: 38%.

Legacy of quality

It is at the Oude Molen Distillery in Grabouw that the legacy of René Santhagens lives on. Not only does the venue produce some of the Cape’s finest brandies, but it pays homage to his erstwhile Stellenbosch home Oude Molen and his dedication to excellence in brandy distillation.

Danie Pretorius, commercial manager at Oude Molen, says that René was the true hero of the South African brandy industry. “As in the development of the local wine sector, which required a hero or two to change the course of the industry, so did René make his mark by creating new quality standards for brandy,” he points out.

“The KWV diverted the path of the distillation industry in South Africa from 1918 by providing wine farmers with a regulatory framework for growing grapes and making wine,” says Danie. “And, together with René, it framed the legislation that became the Wine and Spirits Act of 1924, which promulgated specific criteria for brandy distillation and maturation regimes, including permissible additives and fermentation processes.”

The basic tenets, which remain applicable to this day, include the making of a wine to the specific quality regulations required for brandy distillation. The wine must be double-distilled in a copper potstill. And the resultant clear distillate must be aged in oak barrels not bigger than 340 litres for a minimum of three years.

“This is in fact stricter than the regulations in Cognac, where only two years’ barrel ageing is required,” says Danie from beneath Oude Molen’s spacious tasting venue, which is adorned with black-and-white images of a debonair René Santhagens. He points to one of the images. “Oude Molen and the entire brandy industry has one person to thank for the excellent level of quality for which South African brandy has become world renowned. And that’s that man.”

Back in Stellenbosch, in the region where René began his brandy foray, the Van Ryn distillery stands as another tribute to the quality of South African brandy. Here the specific production methods and requirements are to be seen as part of a rivetingly informative brandy tour. Van Ryn’s vast storage houses contain 30,000 barrels of maturing brandy, truly putting you in the spirit. Entering one of these barrel-adorned caverns has your nose delighting in the delicious and intoxicating scent of brandy ageing in oak, your mouth beginning to water at the prospect of – one day – tasting the barrels’ contents.

Van Ryn brandy master Marlene Bester has the task of blending these barrels of variously aged brandy into the final bottled products for Van Ryn’s potstill brandy range, which comprises labels bearing 10, 12, 15 and 20 years. The number on the bottle, it’s worth noting, represents the youngest portion of aged brandy.

The Stellenbosch Visio cocktail

• 50ml Oude Molen 100 Reserve
• 20ml Bols Crème de Cacao
• 10ml caramel syrup
• 50ml cream

Shake the ingredients together well before passing the mixture through a fine sieve. Serve with Nitro Caramel popcorn on the side.

“The basis of all good brandy is good wine,” says Marlene. “Most South African brandies originate as wines made from Colombar and Chenin Blanc grapes, two varieties that are excellent for producing the fresh, young, low-alcohol wines used as the base wine for brandy distillation. You simply cannot make good brandy from poor wine, and in South Africa, we are fortunate to have white wines specially made to the requirements of those of us who have the pleasure of distilling them: low alcohol and bright acidity. And no sulphur is added, as this leaves a residue in the stills and the maturation process.”

Standing in these vast storage spaces with thousands of barrels and a rich woody, sweet alcohol scent hanging in great pools above your head, you sense the dramatic influence of wood ageing on the spirit.

Marlene concurs. “South African potstill brandy has to stay in wood for a minimum of three years, but distilleries like Van Ryn have barrels going back decades,” she says. “Nobody quite knows what happens in those barrels. Obviously, this is where the brandy picks up its golden to brown hue from the wood, as immediately after the distillation, the liquid is as clear as water. But with the oxygen seeping through the wood and interacting with the brandy, amazing aromas and flavours develop.”

She points to a row of barrels. “When I get to blend the final product and draw samples, I’ll find two barrels of brandy, both distilled 10 years ago from the same wine and that have been lying alongside each other for a decade,” she says. “But when I draw samples from each to analyse by smell and taste, their development has been completely different. So nobody quite knows what happens in those mysterious years of wood maturation.”

The South African Brandy Foundation

Unique to the local liquor industry, the South African Brandy Foundation is an inclusive representative body founded in 1984 to promote the excellence, versatility and quality of the country’s brandy offering. It is a world-class example of an organisation representing various producers and companies who, while fierce competitors in the market-place, work together to manage a platform committed to the generic promotion of one of their most famous commercial offerings, in this case brandy.

Christelle Reade-Jahn, the current director of the SA Brandy Foundation, says the goals of the foundation are twofold. “First and foremost, brandy is a major contributor to the South African economy. It offers thousands of employment opportunities on the wine farms where grapes for our product are grown, in the production of the distillation wine and the brandies themselves, and in the supply chain. The foundation acts as the link between the industry and government.

“There are tariffs and levies to negotiate, laws surrounding the responsible use of alcohol to implement and oversee, and hundreds of thousands of jobs to represent when dealing with the authorities. As you can imagine, the past two-and-a-half years have been fraught with challenges owing to the disruption Covid-19 caused in the liquor industry, among others. The Brandy Foundation had to work closely with other liquor industry bodies to negotiate some tricky waters.”

The other task of the foundation is to generically promote the quality, diversity, culture and inherent traits of the gorgeous creation that is South African brandy. And Christelle relishes the task of donning these two very different hats, from hard-core industry lobbyist in the circles of government administration to acting as an ambassador for the distilled offering of the vine.

“The Brandy Foundation is almost 40 years old and I don’t think that I or my predecessors have had a single dull day in the job,” she says. “Like South Africa’s wines, our brandies are just so startlingly diverse, with so many individual characteristics, that it’s impossible to be anything but enthusiastic about this category of the drinks industry. From terroir-driven estate brandies to the crafted potstill elixirs and the exciting lifestyle range of blended brandies that have been part of all South African cultures for decades, it is just incredibly stimulating to represent this product to the trade and the consumer.”

And today more than ever, the challenge is to make brandy exciting in the eyes of the younger, fashion-conscious consumer who is exposed to the dynamic and creative marketing done in the spirits sector, much of it by huge international brandy producers.

“Among the younger adults, brown spirits such as brandy, Cognac and whisky are sometimes a second choice after white spirits like gin, vodka and white rum that are first choices in the vibey cocktail culture,” adds Christelle. “Here the Brandy Foundation has to ensure we keep our ear to the ground, reading the market trends and collaborating with mixologists and lifestyle gurus to see how we can get brandy seen as a fashionable and trendy option when it comes to creating and offering cocktails in aspirational settings.”

She laughs with pleasure. “Here I think I have the best job in the world, truly, and if more people knew about the Brandy Foundation I would be inundated with job applications,” she says. “On the one hand I get to promote the luxury surrounding the classy potstill brandies and it is heavenly just to be around these flavours and aromas. And on the other hand, the foundation is out there seeking opportunities to get brandy noticed, used and consumed in night clubs and cocktail lounges; and all this amid the cultural diversity that makes South Africa as exciting as the category of great brandy the country has created.”

Tasting brandy

Nobody, just nobody, can tell anyone how, what, where or when he or she should enjoy brandy (or any other drink). When it comes to brandy, it is the complexity of aromas and flavours and the heady, seductive frame of high-alcohol distilled spirit that draws me in.

Brandy time, therefore, is me time. It will involve a potstill brandy. Oude Molen XO, an elixir blended from barrels of which the youngest component is 10 years old, is a current favourite. Next on the list would be the Van Ryn’s 12 because it is a great brandy and the house from where it originates underscores Stellenbosch as not only the Cape’s wine capital, but a major force in brandy as well.

The measure to pour should be at least three tots, as the true enjoyment of a good brandy requires a diverse approach. You begin by sniffing. Then come a few tentative lip-wetting sips. And then, when the spirit has warmed the stomach, heightened the senses and elated the mind, modest draughts of brandy are taken so the pleasure may overwhelm.

In the glass – a snifter, of course – add a block of ice to the three tots. The melting ice causes a slight dilution, allowing the brandy’s flavours to be released and flutter lazily to the surface, like just-hatched fireflies.

Then there is the smoke. My ultimate companion to a good brandy experience is the civilised practice of smoking a fine cigar. A Havana: Cohiba, Montecristo or Partagas, if a choice is available. Cut, lit and smoking, the cigar is held in one hand, sending its stream of aromatic blue smoke drifting in silk threads into the air. In the other, the glass of brandy, now cool and golden, ready to be sipped and swallowed.

A great potstill brandy will be a masterly integrated sensorial experience. Smooth, delicate and soft to the edge of lushness, the raw alcohol has been mellowed and smoothened by years of ageing in the cask. Yet, the heart of the brandy beats with the spirit of the distillation, the fiery blaze of alcohol combines with the lushness to unleash the darts of splendid flavours. There will be dried apricot and dense, dark prune. A touch of ground coffee and life-affirming orange peel with some exotic notes of ground cardamom and nutmeg. The brandy will flow, true and soulful, a work of art that began with the crafting of nature in the vineyard.

Then a deep puff from the cigar, the smoke warm and drying the palate like a fragrant dessert wine. The brandy adds a touch of something unashamedly decadent. But something you know you deserve.  

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Living history. That’s what the renovated, improved De Volkskombuis is. The moment you arrive, you can feel Stellenbosch’s history enveloping the building.

Two centuries ago this was a farm called Vredenburg. In 1902, Herbert Baker was commissioned to build labourers’ cottages on this very site. Over the ensuing decades the farm was subdivided and subjected to subtle changes until, in 1968, it was purchased by Historical Homes of South Africa. Great effort went into restoring the cottages to their original character and finally the restaurant De Volkskombuis found a home in these buildings.

People lucky enough to have lived in Stellenbosch in earlier times will have mixed feelings when thinking back to the days when the town boasted only a handful of restaurants. De Volkskombuis was one of the top eateries, famous for its ‘Meraai se Pie’, a creamy chicken pie that had people flocking from far-flung parts of the country.

To the great advantage of the local tourism trade, more foreign visitors began to grace South African shores in the early 1990s. I remember attending various functions, celebrations and book launches at De Volkskombuis in the ’80s, but from 1990 onwards big tour buses delivering tourists, especially from the Far East, became a more familiar sight in Aan-de-Wagenweg. I visited De Volkskombuis in September 1992 to review the restaurant for a Cape Town daily and found the restaurant crammed with Japanese tourists. In respectful silence they devoured the traditional fare: bobotie, oxtail and, obviously, ‘Meraai se Pie’.

But as time went by, the popularity of the restaurant started to wane, partly as a result of the boom in new establishments in Stellenbosch. For a number of years De Volkskombuis stood vacant and derelict. Then in 2016, the Rupert family initiated a full restoration. 

One of the effects of the Covid-19 era is an acute awareness of space. While retaining the historic outer shell of the buildings, architect Johann Slee simultaneously created a restaurant with abundant space and light. Gone forever is the gloomy, musty interior. Wood fires burn in the hearths in wintertime, creating a homely cosiness as warmth permeates the entire building. The restaurant’s fireplace alcoves were tastefully restored, as were all the doors and windows. 

In fact, the ambience of the new Volkskombuis firmly retains a connection to its predecessor. The traditional art and objects remind us of historical Stellenbosch: old copper pots and pans recall the days when Stellenbosch still had an active coppersmith, collections of porcelain reinforce ties to the colonial settlers.

The menu, however, no longer focuses on a wide range of old-style dishes. Only three offerings are vaguely traditional: a curried lamb stew attributed to one Koekie, an oxtail potjie and a lamb rack. The origin of the mysterious Koekie eludes me, but the people at an adjacent table partook of her lamb curry and its fragrance almost convinced me to pay homage to her. But I had other plans.

The menu encourages punters to enjoy a starter or a salad before advancing to the main course. At our table the potato gnocchi, Caesar salad and walnut and pear salad found favour; the salads were enjoyed with gusto, the potato gnocchi not so much. Then came the main focus, a choice of steaks and other delights for the carnivore: Slow-roasted Pork Belly, Pan-seared Line Fish, Wood Fire-roasted Baby Chicken and a very respectable De Volkskombuis Beef Burger.

Since Johann Slee added verandas to create outside dining space and magnificently restored the open-air dining areas under the age-old oak trees, it stands to reason that the chef would augment the menu with food ideal for alfresco dining on warm summer days. His choice fell on pizza, of which seven options are on offer, plus 12 add-ons ranging from pineapple to smoked BBQ chicken. I was tempted to order one; either the one that boasted biltong among the toppings or the Helderberg, which is really paella in another guise.

But I digress. We struck it lucky with our main course selections. The line fish of the day was yellowtail, its moist and tender flesh complemented by seared, brilliantly crispy skin. Looking at the accompanying potato niçoise, green beans, a poached egg, parmesan cheese and lemon butter sauce, I recalled my gruesome experience in 1992, when the old Volkskombuis managed to serve double-boiled broccoli. More evidence of how much things have improved.

Across the table there was an order for sirloin steak and from my left came the only interest in traditional fare. Having ordered the lamb rack served with pomme anna, sweetened carrots, broccoli and cauliflower in a white sauce, she responded with enthusiasm. I felt a pang of jealousy when I eyed the lamb rack, but I had nothing to complain about. My choice fell on the rib-eye steak, all 600g of it. Medium-rare as ordered and an absolute pleasure. The steaks are served with French fries and salad, and my only gripe concerns the salad. Not everyone enjoys vinegary salad dressing, especially if the person drizzling the salad did so with a rather heavy hand.

You’ve probably noticed I failed to mention my own starter. I asked for a starter portion of one of the main courses on offer, the smoked tomato risotto, and this became my culinary highlight of the year thus far. Ever since I watched French chef Raymond Blanc demonstrating on television how to extract tomato essence, I’ve been trying to emulate the way he uses that essence to make tomato risotto. The basic technique is actually quite simple: chop up some vine-ripened tomatoes, sprinkle with salt and chopped garlic and hang them in a muslin cloth for a day or two. The resulting liquid, says Chef Raymond, is the essence of tomato and it’s the cornerstone of a tomato risotto. The challenge lies in how you prepare the dish, especially the amount of liquid you use, but I have never encountered anyone who could make a convincing tomato risotto.

That is, until I had De Volkskombuis’s smoked tomato risotto. It is a joy to savour and I can’t recommend it too highly. Subtle and rich in flavour and with the added taste sensation of parmesan and mozzarella cheese, macadamia nuts and basil, it made the visit to De Volkskombuis absolutely worthwhile.

I can see myself in the coming summer months, sitting outside and enjoying the tomato risotto once again as a starter before trying the Helderberg pizza. The way I feel right now, I can even see myself tempted to order the risotto as a dessert.

Good things come to those who wait – and the resurrection of De Volkskombuis has proven to be thoroughly worth the wait. 

From the cellar

By Chris Otto

Stellenbosch is wine country, where the first vineyards were established as long ago as the late 17th century. The wine industry developed slowly and, except for ever-increasing volumes of often dubious quality, not much of significance happened until the latter half of the 20th century. But then things started changing, standards improved markedly and our winemakers are now producing world-class wines.

Not just wine country, Stellenbosch is Cabernet Sauvignon country, with many superb offerings. Since De Volkskombuis has been part of the local restaurant scene for decades, it is fitting that its wine list should include a wide selection of outstanding Stellenbosch Cabernets. But that’s not all it includes. We started with an impressive L’Ormarins Blanc de Blanc MCC 2013 and, still one of my favourite Chardonnays, an Uva Mira (2019).

Then onto the Cabernets. The Neil Ellis Jonkershoek Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 was sublime and confirmed the Ellises’ reputation as makers of outstanding wines. This was followed by the Simonsig Labyrinth Cabernet 2017, which again proved the Malans are winemakers par excellence. We couldn’t resist the temptation to try another of the Stellenbosch stalwarts: the Thelema Cabernet 2017. Again, the best, although this wine, like the others, could probably age for another 20–30 years.

If this sounds like too much wine, I should point out that there were eight of us and we were sitting in front of a roaring wood fire with caring and enthusiastic service. Were it not for the Level 3 lockdown, we might have spent the night.

The wine glasses were up to the fare and everything was well presented. No BYO. 

Good to know: De Volkskombuis, Aan-de-Wagenweg, Krigeville, Stellenbosch, +27 (0)21 741 0980.

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Visitors to Vergelegen’s Nguni Pop-up Café are in for an Instagram-worthy treat – enjoy your honest-to-goodness alfresco hot dog in the presence of a vast herd of indigenous, multi-coloured Nguni cattle. There are dozens of adorable calves, too!  

“Following President Cyril Ramaphosa’s latest announcement, we’re celebrating that we can welcome sit-down guests and offer on-site wine consumption yet again. We’ve decided to make the most of this great news and our fantastic outdoor setting. Guests can enjoy delicious made-to-order food, drink in the views, and relax in a one-of-a-kind rustic environment while remaining socially distanced,” says Vergelegen MD Wayne Coetzer.  

Guests can choose between two seating options: a vast glass conservatory, stylishly bedecked with greenery and soft furnishings, or an outdoor grass-covered deck. The cattle graze and tend to their calves around the conservatory, which offers stunning views of the majestic Hottentots Holland Mountains. Laid-back country moo-sic adds to the rustic vibe.

Michael Cooke, Vergelegen executive chef, has developed a choice of Asian, German and French-style toppings for the beef, pork or vegetarian hot dogs. “The Asian hot dog offers topping ingredients such as slaw, Japanese-style mayonnaise and nori seaweed; German-inspired toppings include mustard, sauerkraut and pickles; and French-style toppings incorporate truffle aioli, Comté cows’ milk cheese and bacon bits. You can order fries with mayonnaise on the side, and we’ve also developed the ultimate chocolate éclair with a milk tart filling,” says Cooke.

Good to know

Vergelegen’s Nguni Pop-up Café is open this August from Wednesdays to Sundays, 10:00-17:00. Send an email to info@vergelegen.co.za for more information or call +27 (0)21 847 2100.

Follow Vergelegen on Facebook and Instagram for news and updates.  

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