Designed with timeless elegance in mind, the boutique reflects the heritage and craftsmanship synonymous with Rolex. Warm wood finishes, refined interiors and thoughtfully curated lounge spaces create an inviting experience that feels both sophisticated and welcoming.

As part of the worldwide network of Official Rolex Retailers, Charles Greig Jewellers offers clients access to guaranteed Rolex timepieces, along with expert guidance for collectors and first-time buyers alike.

Beyond showcasing exceptional watches, the boutique celebrates design, precision and the legacy of one of the world’s most iconic watchmakers – right in the heart of Cape Town’s waterfront.

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Six decades of excellence, reimagined
With more than sixty years of expertise, Van Deijl Jewellers continues to redefine fine jewellery through designs that blend contemporary sophistication with the elegance of traditional craftsmanship. The Shining Legacy Collection is no exception, marking a new chapter for a brand celebrated for transforming imagination into wearable art.

Inspired by the Cape’s iconic landscape
The collection draws its essence from the Cape region’s iconic landscapes: the luminous blues of the ocean, the sculptural silhouettes of the mountains, and the warm glow of its sunsets. These elements are translated into sculptural forms in yellow gold, white gold, and platinum, paired with ethically sourced diamonds and gemstones chosen for their brilliance and character. Designed for the confident, refined, and effortlessly stylish individual, each piece captures originality in its purest form.

Crafted in-house with meticulous attention to detail
From radiant diamond rings to delicate earrings and statement pendants, every item showcases Van Deijl’s passion for excellence. Each piece is designed and brought to life at the brand’s Tyger Valley flagship store, where award-winning designers, highly skilled gemmologists, and master goldsmiths work side-by-side, seamlessly blending artistry with cutting-edge technology to produce fine jewellery of exceptional quality.

A collection where legacy meets modern luxury
“The new Shining Legacy Collection reflects our identity — authentic, distinctive, and rooted in true craftsmanship,” the Van Deijl team shares. “It is a celebration of individuality, expressed through design.”

Whether commemorating a special moment or simply embracing the pleasure of fine jewellery, Van Deijl invites you to explore a collection where legacy meets modern luxury.

Discover the Shining Legacy Collection exclusively to Van Deijl Jewellers, Tyger Valley Centre, or online at vandeijl.co.za.

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A Symbol of Integrity: Responsible sourcing and ethics

Van Deijl’s journey towards sustainability applies to every creation, and it is particularly noticeable in their sourcing of only the finest quality diamonds for that special heirloom. In a world increasingly concerned with ethical mining and fair trade, Van Deijl leads by example. Every diamond is responsibly sourced, ensuring not only compliance with the Kimberley Process but also adherence to even stricter internal standards.

At Van Deijl, every diamond tells a story – one that begins with approval and clearance by the South African Diamond and Precious Metal Regulator. This ensures their stones come from conflict-free areas and that the people and communities involved are treated with fairness and respect. Such transparency and integrity form the foundation of the Van Deijl Difference.

Independent Certification: The Van Deijl commitment to transparency

Anyone can claim their diamonds are responsibly sourced, but Van Deijl believes in proof. That’s why every Van Deijl diamond of 0.30ct or larger is independently certified, ensuring the integrity, quality, and ethical origin of each gem. These certificates, issued by the Gemological Institute of America or the European Gemological Laboratory South Africa, are more than formal documents; they are an assurance of integrity, authenticity and a lasting peace of mind.

By prioritising independent verification, Van Deijl enables clients to make informed, confident choices that reflect a commitment to shared values.

Sustainable Services: Repair and restoration to breathe new life into much loved jewellery

Van Deijl’s commitment to sustainability doesn’t stop at the sourcing of high quality materials. Equally important is what happens after a piece of jewellery is created and cherished. That’s where Van Deijl’s meticulous jewellery repair and restoration service comes in – a way to preserve and prolong the life of treasured pieces rather than replacing them.

Whether it’s restoring a worn engagement ring or repairing a damaged setting, Van Deijl breathes new life into well-loved jewellery. This practice not only reduces waste but also preserves the emotional and historical significance of each item.

The art of recutting: Reviving the sparkle of your stones

Even the finest diamonds can show signs of age after years of wear. Rather than discarding these stones, Van Deijl offers expert recutting services to enhance each diamond’s brilliance and overall value. This approach allows clients to keep their original stones – along with all the memories they hold – while enjoying a refreshed, radiant result.

Recutting also reduces the need for new mining, helping to minimise the environmental impact of jewellery production. It’s a small act with a large ripple effect, reflecting Van Deijl’s belief in thoughtful, sustainable luxury.

A Jeweller For All Times: Heirloom jewellery that honours the past

There’s something deeply special about heirloom jewellery – the way it connects generations through craftmanship, beauty, memory and meaning. Van Deijl specialises in preserving and reimagining these cherished pieces, whether through careful restoration or redesigning and crafting them into something new.

By working closely with clients to uncover the story and sentiment behind each heirloom, Van Deijl helps families preserve their legacy in meaningful, wearable forms. It is a philosophy founded on deep respect – for craftsmanship, the use of exceptional materials and for the people who value the past, honour the present and look to the future.

Enabling the next generation

Sustainability is not only about conserving resources; it’s about creating opportunities. Van Deijl believes in enabling the next generation of jewellers, gemmologists and designers through mentorship, training and education. By passing on skills and values, they ensure that the legacy of ethical jewellery-making continues to develop.

This long-term vision is fundamental to the Van Deijl Difference. It’s about shaping a jewellery industry built to endure through lasting craftmanship and an unwavering culture of integrity and ethical values. Future generations deserve a world where beautiful jewellery reflects quality, fairness and responsibility in equal measure.

Crafting a future that endures

At Van Deijl, sustainability is not a passing trend — it is a long-standing tradition. It’s about honouring the artistry and values of the past, acting with purpose in the present, and shaping a future where luxury and integrity go hand in hand.

From the ethical sourcing of diamonds to the careful preservation of heirlooms, from recutting cherished stones to mentoring future artisans, every decision is guided by care, respect, and lasting values. This is what sets Van Deijl apart.

The Van Deijl Difference is a commitment to excellence that endures — just like the jewellery they create.

At Van Deijl, sustainability is not a passing trend,  it is a long-standing tradition. It’s about honouring the artistry and values of the past, acting with purpose in the present and shaping a future where luxury and integrity go hand in hand.

From the ethical sourcing of diamonds to the careful preservation of heirlooms, from recutting cherished stones to mentoring future artisans, every decision is guided by care, respect and lasting values. This is what sets Van Deijl apart. The Van Deijl Difference is a commitment to excellence that endures – just like the jewellery they create.

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Since the late 19th century, Longines has offered precise solutions for travellers navigating multiple time zones. This heritage continued with the famous “Turkish Watches”, pocket watches with dual time zones, ordered by the Ottoman Empire in 1908 which allowed for the simultaneous reading of Turkish and Western time. In 1925, Longines introduced the first ever dual-time zone wristwatch, the “Zulu Time”. The dial featured the colourful maritime flag representing the letter “Z”, which signifies the time at the zero meridian in Greenwich, London, now known as Universal Time (UTC +0). In professional aviation it is simply called “Zulu Time”. This 4-digit time format eliminates the confusion of AM and PM indicators. Zulu Time continues to be used by pilots and navigators to ensure clear communication during radio contact.

In 2022, Longines reinterpreted this historic timepiece by launching the Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection, boasting state-of-the-art watchmaking technology. The collection quickly established itself as an essential companion for modern globetrotters, with its precise GMT functionality and distinctive aesthetic.

From 1925 to 2025

Now in 2025, to celebrate the centennial of this groundbreaking timepiece, the brand proudly unveils the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. This commemorative edition features a 39-mm stainless steel case with a bidirectional rotating bezel adorned with exquisite 18K rose-gold cap, circular-brushed insert — a first for the collection — and 24-hour graduations, enabling the wearer to track a third time zone. The meticulously engraved numbers and indexes add both depth and refinement to the design, while the choice of rose gold, which contains copper, pays homage to the copper strip marking the Prime (or “zero”) Meridian that is embedded in the ground at the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, erected 350 years ago.

The matt black dial creates a striking contrast with the rose-gold-coloured hands and indexes, providing exceptional legibility. Both the hands and hour markers are treated with Super-LumiNova® for optimal readability in all lighting conditions. The dial is further distinguished by five stars elegantly positioned above the 6 o’clock marker, where there is also a discreet date window and the years “1925 – 2025” elegantly engraved in a subtle tone-on-tone finish, marking the centennial celebration. In two more firsts for the Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection, a transparent case back reveals a rose-gold-coloured PVD rotor featuring a special engraving of a planisphere with the Prime Meridian running through its centre.

Precision across time zones

A true (or “traveller”) GMT watch, it is powered by the exclusive Longines calibre L844.4, a self-winding mechanical movement with a silicon balance spring and innovative components that make it up to 10 times more resistant to magnetic fields than the ISO 764 standard requires. This high-precision movement provides a power reserve of up to 72 hours and is chronometer-certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

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2025 marks the 50th anniversary of the Graff Butterfly – an iconic, endlessly evolving silhouette synonymous with the House of Graff.

Since the very first iteration of Graff’s Butterfly in 1975 – in elegant, pared-back diamond pendants – through to a diamond brooch depicting the ethereal creature in the moment it lands, resting atop the 2013 recreation of the iconic ‘Hair and Jewel’ shoot, to a reminder of the precious nature of time in myriad Butterfly timepiece designs, this remarkable motif has continued to metamorphose.

Every Butterfly is designed and crafted in such a way that their wings are held aloft in mid-flight, a fleeting moment from the natural world, captured for eternity in diamonds. Today, the Graff Butterfly is universally recognised as a symbol of transformation, empowerment, freedom and beauty – inspiring a new generation of jewellery connoisseurs and collectors.

In celebration of this milestone, a new campaign featuring a collection of Butterfly high jewellery designs will launch on 20th March 2025 – the northern hemisphere’s first day of spring. Handcrafted at Graff’s atelier in Mayfair, London, a striking new high jewellery necklace features a voluminous, curved arc of 57.13 carats of snow-set pavé emeralds, which encircle the neckline with a bold intensity and depth of colour. A single 5.04 carat emerald cut diamond is positioned at the centre of the piece, from which a kaleidoscope of butterflies radiates outwards.

Emerald Cut and Pavé Diamond Butterfly Necklace and Earring Suite comprising over 80 carats

A further creation features magnificent butterflies with snow-set pavé wings and oval stones at their centres, set at varying angles upon an elegant line of pavé diamonds, creating the illusion that the butterflies fit and glide charmingly around the neckline, culminating in a pear shape diamond drop. A bracelet replicates these same design codes with a fine snow-set pavé diamond line set with five artfully arranged butterflies. High jewellery earrings complete the suite, as two diamond butterflies are adorned with perfectly matched pear shape diamond drops.

In a third suite, an exquisite, single line of butterflies created from pear shape and marquise diamonds graduate in size and form as they trace the length of a sweeping arc of snow-set pavé stones within a high jewellery necklace. A 5.02 carat emerald cut diamond is placed at the heart of the piece, from which further butterflies float and flutter downwards. Graff’s master artisans carefully set and angled the wings of each butterfly to reflect and emit maximum light, ensuring striking impact within an almost imperceptible white gold setting.

Francois Graf, Chief Executive Officer at Graf, comments: “In many ways, the evolution of the Graf Butterfly embodies the ethos of Graf. We transform, reimagine and redefine what is possible across every aspect of the jewellery-making process in a relentless pursuit of perfection to create magnificent treasures – the most fabulous jewels in the world. We are proud to celebrate this momentous milestone, which exemplifies our standing as the original creators of diamond history.”

Anne-Eva Geffroy, Design Director at Graff, adds: “Jewellery creations inspired by the Graff Butterfly harness the exquisite beauty of one of nature’s most captivating creatures – a silhouette that continues to excite our imaginations and spark our creativity. Every jewellery piece is designed and crafted to inspire the wearer, an ever-present reminder of their opportunity for transformation and ability to fly.”

Since its launch in 1975, the Graff Butterfly has evolved to include interpretations such as Silhouette and Pavé, which are, together with striking high jewellery creations, set with the finest Graf diamonds. Believed by many cultures to be the bearer of good fortune, the butterfly is rich in symbolic meaning; its lifecycle representative of transformation and its fleeting beauty emblematic of the ever-changing natural world around us.

The high jewellery creations will feature in a new Graff Butterfly campaign, photographed by Felix Cooper in London, launching on the 20th March 2025.

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Above: Lurex animal-print pleated and hand-beaded evening gown R28 500, MMXMS & Stephen van Eeden Atelier; Bvlgari Tubogas choker in 18K yellow gold R408 000; Bvlgari Tubogas bracelet in 18K yellow gold R211 000; Bvlgari Tubogas bracelet in 18K yellow, white and rose gold R211 000; Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas lady’s watch: 35 mm stainless steel curved case, 18K rose gold bezel set with diamonds, 18K rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite, green lacquered dial with guilloché soleil treatment, 18K rose gold and stainless steel single spiral bracelet. Quartz movement, hours and minutes functions. Waterproof to 30 m R347 000; Bvlgari Serpenti evening clutch with handle in Molten light gold karung skin with black nappa leather inner lining. Light gold Serpenti Seduttori handle R75 000.

Above: Black fitted mini dress with gold metallic trim R2 999, H&M Studio; Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas lady’s watch: 35 mm stainless steel curved case, 18K rose gold bezel set with diamonds, 18K rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite, green lacquered dial with guilloché soleil treatment, 18K rose gold and stainless steel single spiral bracelet. Quartz movement, hours and minutes functions. Waterproof to 30 m R347 000; Bvlgari Serpenti necklace in 18K yellow gold, set with demi-pavé diamonds on the head and tail, and black onyx eyes. Price on request; Bvlgari Serpenti Viper one-coil bracelet in 18K rose gold set with full pavé diamonds. Price on request; Bvlgari Serpenti Viper single-spiral ring in 18K rose gold set with demi-pavé diamonds R90 000.

Above: Black chiffon Kempner top dress R5200, KLûK CGDT; Bvlgari Divas’ Dream earrings in 18K rose gold set with pavé diamonds R560 000; Bvlgari Serpenti Forever sunglasses with smoked and gradient lenses in large, rectangular, black acetate frames. The arms, inspired by the iconic clasp of Serpenti bags, feature the precious snake head hand-decorated in enamel, giving this model an irresistible appeal R12 265.

Above: Cropped top with off-the-shoulder drape detail R1099, matching floor-sweeping skirt R2299, both H&M Studio; Bvlgari Divas’ Dream earrings in 18K rose gold set with a diamond and pavé diamonds R560 000; Bvlgari Divas’ Dream pendant necklace in 18K rose gold set with one central and other round pink sapphire (3.53ct), round rubies (0.81ct), round (0.16ct) and pavé (0.85ct) diamonds. Price on request; D de Dior Satine watch in yellow gold with stainless steel diamond bezel R136 000; Pomellato Iconica bracelet in 18K rose gold R343 000; Pomellato Nudo Classic ring in white gold and rose gold with full pavé diamond setting R201 000; Bvlgari Serpentine tote with white agate crystals R104000.

Above: Navy & gold Burnout organza Megan dress R8 800, KLûK CGDT; Messika Move UNO diamond pavé earrings in rose gold R98 550; Chopard Ice Cube bangle in ethical white gold and 38 diamonds R208 600; Chopard Ice Cube bangle in ethical rose gold R109 650; Chopard Ice Cube bangle in rose gold R114 360; Chopard Ice Cube ring in ethical rose gold with diamonds R125 580; Chopard Happy Hearts shoulder bag: black calfskin leather, rose gold finish metal accents, silver tone stud embellishments. Rose gold finish metal embellishment with moving malachite cabochons on magnetic snap closure. Nude leather-lined interior with two compartments, one zip pocket and six card slots. Removable and adjustable rose gold finish metal chain shoulder strap R41 600; Chopard Happy Sport 33 mm automatic watch in ethical rose gold, Lucent SteelTM, with five floating diamonds R236 900; DioRésille sunglasses delicately engraved with the Cannage motif and adorned with the CD signature R13 950.

Above: Bowie Tulle Mini dress R13 500, Sadie Bosworth Atelier; Messika Move 10th SM necklace in yellow gold. R155 250; Messika Move UNO diamond pavé earrings in rose gold R98 550; Messika My Twin diamond single-clip earring in yellow gold R106 900; Dior Grand Bal ‘Plissé Soleil’ watch in rose gold, with diamonds and mother-of-pearl marquetry. Price on request; Messika CARE(S) black cord bracelet in white gold pavé R44 000; Messika CARE(S) cream cord bracelet in pink gold R30 150; Messika CARE(S) beige cord bracelet in yellow gold R44 000.

Above: Champagne-hued top with billowing sleeves R1 199, H&M Studio; Bvlgari Serpenti rimless sunglasses R16 555; Pomellato Catene choker featuring the gourmette link that is deeply rooted in Pomellato’s heritage R622 500; Bvlgari metallic leather clutch R55 000; Pomellato Iconica medium-large ring in 18K gold set with five brilliant-cut diamonds R84 000; Pomellato Iconica ring with fancy diamond setting R99 000.

Further Details

Stockists

H&M: INFO.ZA@HM.COM | SUPERBALIST.COM
KLÛK CGDT: +27 83 377 7780 | KLUKCGDT.COM
PICOT & MOSS: +27 11 669 0500 | PICOTANDMOSS.CO.ZA
SADIE BOSWORTH ATELIER: +27 84 240 1125 | SADIEBOSWORTHATELIER.COM STEPHEN VAN EEDEN ATELIER: +27 63 683 0680 | STEPHENVANEEDEN.CO.ZA

Picot & Moss

+27 11 669 0500 | PICOTANDMOSS.CO.ZA
BVLGARI BOUTIQUE | +27 11 883 1325 | PICOTANDMOSS.CO.ZA

Architects of Time

+27 11 669 0790 | BHHBOUTIQUE.CO.ZA
(MESSIKA, CHOPARD, POMELLATO, DIOR WATCHES) BHH BOUTIQUE HYDE PARK: +27 11 325 4119
BHH BOUTIQUE V&A WTERFRONT CT: +27 21 418 1889

Picot & Moss Eyewear

+27 11 669 0790 | PICOTANDMOSS.CO.ZA BVLGARI & DIOR EYEWEAR

Credits

PHOTOGRAPHY: JACQUES WEYERS OF HERO CREATIVE MANAGEMENT

MODEL: KARLA DU PLESSIS OF BOSS MODELS

MAKE-UP: ALGRIA

HAIR: JEANETTE GENISFASHION ASSISTANT: MARIA STEYN

LOCATION: CAPE GRACE HOTEL, V&A WATERFRONT, CAPE TOWN

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IN THE CONTINUOUSLY EVOLVING TAPESTRY of your story, a wristwatch is a statement, a subtle expression of luxury, of your style. The allure of a well-crafted watch is wrapped up in the indulgence of slowing down. It’s an invitation to step away from the digital age with its relentless ping of notifications.

A watch captures time, but telling the time is arguably incidental. Look at a Patek Philippe and you’re thinking about its story, its heritage, its elegance and refinement. Not what time it is.

This is not a watch for a single generation; rather, its story grows as the years pass. Handed down through family lines, its provenance is one thing, its legacy quite another.

Patek Philippe is the oldest independent, family-owned watch manufacturer in Geneva and has a long story of its own. Established in 1839, it made the first Swiss wristwatch, for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, in 1868. The countess has long been forgotten, but her show-stopping yellow gold bracelet is displayed, with due care and respect, at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva.

Until 1868, time had been kept in the pocket and the idea of a wristwatch was dismissed as a silly fad. A pocket watch was what a man needed; the wrists, neck and ears were for women and their jewellery. Interestingly, the practicality of the wristwatch was recognised during the First World War, and by the time of the second global conflict watchmakers’ focus had shifted to wristwatches for men.

This pioneering spirit at Patek Philippe is evident in other firsts: the first complicated ladies’ wristwatch with a five-minute repeater, in 1916; the first split-seconds chronograph wristwatch, in 1923; the first all-electronic clock, in 1956; the ladies’ first minute repeater, in 2011. And along the way, the company has racked up patents and first prizes.

It is also continuously adding new chapters to its story. Witness the recently launched Aquanaut Luce ‘Rainbow’ Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie with its Grand Complications It follows in stylish footsteps: the Aquanaut Collection was released in 1997.

The new ‘Rainbow’ is the first minute repeater in the Aquanaut Collection. It is an arresting piece of jewellery, set with a total of 52 baguette-cut multi-coloured sapphires, 112 baguette-cut diamonds and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds. Just look at these numbers – the timepiece is positively awash with sparkle, particularly the model with the bracelet comprising a rainbow of multicoloured sapphires. The diamonds in the dial are in the invisible setting, and in the snow setting in the hour ring.

The hour markers are sapphires and the baton-style hands are rose gold – the hour hand with three rubies, and the minute hand with five blue sapphires. The hole in the cannon carrying the hands is set with a brilliant-cut diamond. The bezel keeps the original octagonal shape, with an outer row of diamonds and an inner of rainbow-coloured sapphires. It’s all set in a slender rose gold case.

But that is only the looks; there are also the additional functions. The transparent sapphire case-back reveals the intricate self-winding R 27 calibre (internal mechanism) that chimes on demand the hours, quarters and minutes on two classic gongs, as well as the off-centre 22K gold guilloched mini-rotor. There are 342 parts and a power reserve of 43 to 48 hours.

This gorgeous watch is delivered with three straps in matte beige, matte white and red, and there are more gems in the rose gold Aquanaut fold-over clasp. A pretty – and pretty impressive – watch, it comes after the company introduced two useful complications to its Aquanaut Luce ladies’ collection in 2021 and 2022: a travel time dual time-zone model and a self-winding chronograph. In essence, the new references merge haute horlogerie with haute joaillerie, or high watchmaking with high jewellery.

But before the Aquanaut Collection there was the Nautilus Collection, dating back to when the first Nautilus sports watch in steel was launched in 1976. The Nautilus ladies’ model has been interpreted in various versions since its launch in 2013.

The latest in the collection, released recently, are in the Nautilus Haute Joaillerie line, with three of the new models showcasing the snow setting; the close placement of many small diamonds looks like snow shimmering in sunlight. There is a choice of additional gemstones – blue sapphires, rubies or emeralds – seen in each of the references.

Nautilus Haute Joaillerie 7118/1451G-001 is in dazzling white gold, set with 1500 brilliant-cut diamonds and 876 blue sapphires accentuating its design. Its model mates are set with 876 rubies and emeralds. The white gold hour markers are set with the coloured gems and the white gold bracelet is paved with stones. It’s neatly finished with the patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp. A transparent sapphire case-back reveals the inner workings.

Patek Philippe’s autumnal bouquet is completed with the Nautilus 7010R-013, an elegant sports ladies’ model powered by a quartz movement and enclosed in a slim 32mm rose gold case, water-resistant to 60m. This model has a porthole-inspired case construction, and the case and bezel have a contrasting polished and satin finishing.

The standout feature is its lacquered dial, in a striking purple, and showcasing the signature wave pattern of the Nautilus collection. The hour markers are rose gold and ogival-shaped, the date in an aperture at 3 o’clock. The new watch replaces two earlier references. It has a solid case-back and the strap, a composite material in purple, has the classic Nautilus fold-over clasp. It is more understated, with just 46 diamonds in the bezel. There are 80 parts and eight jewels, the power source a silver oxide battery with a battery life of about three years. Its model mate has a bracelet fitted with the patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp. It is the first of the company’s ladies’ watches to feature the new lockable adjustment system.

These new releases in the Aquanaut and Nautilus collections highlight exactly why so many of us love Patek Philippe watches – they are beautiful, finely crafted pieces of art that mark the passing of time and the telling of stories. V

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THE GLOBAL OCEAN, which covers more than 70% of the planet’s surface and contains 97% of its water, generates most of the oxygen we breathe, regulates our climate, feeds us and supports commercial sectors that range from tourism to fisheries and international shipping. Yet according to the UN Environment Programme, “Every year, an estimated eight million tonnes of plastic waste end up in the world’s oceans, climate change is damaging coral reefs and other key ecosystems, overfishing is threatening the stability of fish stocks, nutrient pollution is contributing to the creation of dead zones and nearly 80% of the world’s wastewater is discharged without treatment.”

Add to that the effects of global warming on ocean temperatures: ice melting and causing sea levels to rise, marine heat waves and the acidification of the ocean as a result of excess carbon dioxide. The latter is bad news for corals, oysters and clams – anything with a calcium carbonate shell that dissolves in a more acidic environment – says legendary American marine biologist, activist for ocean conservation, explorer, author and lecturer Dr Sylvia Earle. In an interview she explains, “When you change the chemistry of the ocean, you’re basically nudging the way the planet functions. It [affects] the small things that generate oxygen and capture carbon and maintain these basic cycles – phytoplankton if you will, the forests of the sea – but it’s not limited to that.”

On 19 June 2023, however, there was a breakthrough: the adoption of the United Nations High Seas Treaty, a world-first legal frame- work that extends environmental protection to international waters and provides momentum to the drive to have 30% of our seas protected by 2030. Says Jessica Battle, a senior global ocean governance and policy expert, “What happens on the high seas will no longer be ‘out of sight, out of mind’. The High Seas Treaty will allow for the kind of oversight and integration we need if we want the ocean to keep providing the social, economic and environmental benefits that humanity currently enjoys. We can now look at the cumulative impacts on our ocean in a way that reflects the interconnected blue economy and the ecosystems that support it.”

SAVING THE BLUE BACKYARD

Growing up on a tiny atoll in French Polynesia, surrounded by sharks and vibrant coral reefs, Titouan Bernicot developed a deep connection with the underwater world. In 2015, witnessing the devastating effects of coral bleaching, he embarked on a mission to understand and combat this phenomenon. Supported by renowned institutions like Rolex and its Perpetual Planet Initiative, he and his organisation, Coral Gardeners, aim to revolutionise reef restoration through active conservation, awareness campaigns and innovative approaches. A strong social media presence shares the reef’s story with more than 200 million people worldwide.

Since 2017, Coral Gardeners has been redefining conservation by raising awareness and inspiring younger generations to restore coral reefs and preserve the environment. Driven by Titouan’s love for the sea and admiration for technology entrepreneurs, the group’s members consult experts and scientists to implement effective reef restoration methods. They cultivate coral fragments in underwater nurseries for 12–18 months, reattach them to nearby reefs using marine cement and then closely monitor their growth. With ap- proximately 10 000 corals growing in six nursery sites across French Polynesia, they have achieved their initial goal of planting 30000 corals, doubling their plantings from the previous five years. The tangible impact of their gardening efforts is evident as colours and life return to the reefs.

HARNESSING TECHNOLOGY FOR GOOD

The organisation’s CG Labs explores the potential of technology to enhance information sharing and analysis. Its platform, ReefOS, will connect smartphones and computers to the reef, enabling re- searchers to monitor it more efficiently. By promoting open-source collaboration, Coral Gardeners aims to optimise and scale up coral reef conservation, aligning with Rolex’s philosophy of continuous improvement.

Using hardware and software, including underwater cameras for fish identification, 3D mapping of reefs and data pooling apps, Coral Gardeners harnesses artificial intelligence to document and enhance the growth process. This technology will facilitate the group’s global expansion, with plans to establish a Coral Gardeners site in Fiji through collaboration with community leaders, fishermen and surfers to develop a tailored reef restoration and conservation programme.

Titouan is inspired by iconic scientists and explorers like Earle, who motivate him to dive into the water and achieve more for the cause.

THE PERPETUAL PLANET INITIATIVE

Rolex supports pioneers with a zest for discovery who not only push the boundaries of human endeavour, but are passionate about protecting the planet. The company is committed to the long-term support of individuals and organisations that use science to interpret and solve the environmental challenges of the century.

This commitment was reinforced by the launch of the Perpetual Planet Initiative in 2019. The intention is to focus on those who work to create a better world through the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, to safeguard the oceans as part of an established association with Dr Sylvia Earle’s Mission Blue, and to understand climate change via a long- standing partnership with the National Geographic Society.

The initiative’s portfolio continues to expand and has more than 20 partners, including Cristina Mittermeier and Paul Nicklen in their work as conservation photographers; Rewilding Argentina and Rewilding Chile, off-spring organisations of Tompkins Conservation that are protecting landscapes in South America; Coral Gardeners in transplanting resilient corals to reefs; the Under The Pole expeditions that are pushing the boundaries of underwater exploration; and Steve Boyes and the Great Spine of Africa series of expeditions as they explore the continent’s major river basins. V

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Spring in the northern hemisphere has proved to be the ideal time to host Watches and Wonders in Geneva. Previously held in January for many years, the new slot enables visitors to appreciate the city’s beauty in cold but not freezing temperatures with snow still visible on the mountain peaks.

This year was the second physical event of Watches and Wonders since global travel resumed. It’s hard to imagine greater excitement among the watch brands, journalists and retailers than we experienced in 2022. Still, there was a different energy at the sprawling Palexpo venue a few minutes’ drive from the airport.

The potential for celebrity spotting is part of the fun. I’ve passed Vanessa Redgrave in a passage before, just missed a photo op with Hugh Jackman, and last year waited for Lewis Hamilton to show up for nearly two hours before I gave up. You can tell when there is a pending arrival by the crowd that begins to gather outside a booth, the amount of pacing by marketing executives coordinating entrances and exits, and security staff moving into key positions.

This year, Chopard ambassador Julia Roberts did it for me. I waited patiently while ushers passed around popcorn coated in Läderach milk chocolate, with custom sleeves embellished with “Chopard Loves Cinema”. Julia appeared all too briefly for her photo op with Chopard co-presidents Caroline and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele ahead of a press conference announcing their latest step in the Journey to

Sustainable Luxury. Chopard has committed to rolling out recycled steel for its watches. By the end of 2023, the Maison will use Lucent SteelTM to produce all its steel watches, including bracelets and cases. Lucent SteelTM is made with a recycling rate of at least 80%.

Later I was able to chat with esteemed alpinist Nimsdai Purja, whom I interviewed last year about his world-record-breaking feat of climbing all 14 mountains higher than 8 000m in six months and six days. Reinhold Messner was the first to do it between 1970 and 1986, and he was at Watches and Wonders too. Both men are Montblanc Mark Makers. Roger Federer was there for Rolex, David Beckham and international surfer Nic von Rupp for Tudor, Chinese rapper Lay Zhang for Hublot, Brazilian footballer Ronaldinho for Rebellion Timepieces, and Olympic medallist freestyle skier Eileen Gu for IWC, to name a few.

WATCHES AND WONDERS IN NUMBERS

A 50% increase in attendance from the Asian contingent, previously unable to travel due to the pandemic, and a noticeably higher number of American attendees took things up a notch. Record figures reflect almost double the number of unique visitors of 125 nationalities over the whole week (27 March–2 April) compared to last year at 43000. This included 5400 retailers and 1400 journalists, who secured 13 000 registrations for the 1 800 Touch & Feel sessions scheduled. Sound like Greek to you? It’s all about the numbers at this product showcase that underpins the rapidly growing global watch market (24.8-billion Swiss francs in 2022).

Attendees must spend weeks leading up to the event planning and reorganising schedules in increments of 30 minutes from 9am to 7pm, booking a seat at intimate sessions that allow us to try on the watches and admire their brilliance in 3D, and figuring out how to survive the ensuing evening festivities. People swear by the power of espresso, available on tap at stations dotted throughout the exhibition, where water, fruit juice, tea – and Champagne – are on hand to keep everybody hydrated.

The LAB, which showcased 12 innovative projects on the future of watchmaking, was a major drawcard, as was a marvellous photographic exhibition called What time is it?, a collection of images captured by Swiss photographer Karine Bauzin on her travels around the globe. She asked people in 20 countries over 10 years ‘What time is it?’ and captured their reaction – one hand gesture at a time. Happily, several were taken in South Africa (Cape Town and the Little Karoo) and African countries such as Botswana.

INNER CITY DELIGHTS

Many experienced visitors commented this year that Watches and Wonders Geneva is beginning to take on a similar feel to Basel, which hosted the annual Baselworld showcase until 2019. Hotels were full, some were overbooked and attendees were left scrambling for accommodation at the last minute (35 000 overnight stays were tallied for the week) and rumblings about increasing costs became more common. Switzerland is far from cheap, but one of Basel’s failings as a host city was the high cost of accommodation and living expenses at the time.

Having said that, the organisers – the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie – opened the summit to the public this year for the final two days, selling all 12 000 tickets be- forehand. The average ticket holder was 35 years old and 25% were younger than 25, proving the cross-generational appeal of mechanical watchmaking. Close to 50 watchmakers exhibited this year – another record – while those with more flexible schedules could head out to visit other watchmakers at their Manufactures or mini-exhibitions at luxurious venues in the city and surrounds.

A major highlight, and another innovation to the programme, was the In The City festival of watchmaking that featured special events free and open to all. Visitors could stroll through the Rues Basses of the city centre to find participating boutiques showcasing special pieces, hosting demonstration workshops, previewing new timepieces, and so on. One evening was dedicated to entertainment at five stages along the streets, culminating in a free quayside concert with DJ/producer The Avener on the decks.

FROM DREAMSCAPES TO KERMIT THE FROG

The watchmakers’ booths need a fair amount of exploration time, with their detailed and well-thought-out designs. Rolex was housed in a custom-built building. Ulysse Nardin produced an ‘adult playground’ with a massive watch dial layout on the floor where visitors could be photographed ‘hanging’ from a bridge or taking the place of an index. Bell & Ross had a sculptural deconstruction of its new BR-X5, which features a solid new case construction and Kenissi movement.

And Hermès chose a dream-like scenography by artist Clément Vieille, who used suspended billowy sculptures to move through the space like gentle waves, immersing visitors in ‘The Finesse of Time’. The point? The French House answers the question about whether time can be captured by designing elements that enable us to tame it, play with it, but not control it.

Oris continued to spread joy with its first watch with Disney’s The Muppets and Kermit the Frog – the ProPilot x Kermit Edition – with messaging that encourages consumers to find joy, smile, practise self-care and take time out to celebrate the little things in life.

HEAD-TURNING TIMEPIECES

If you were in the market for a new watch to add to your collection and colour was your only prerequisite, you’d have a tough time choosing a favourite this year. I fell in love with the Patek Philippe Calatrava in rose gold with purple dial and strap. The underlying base of the domed dial is embossed with a concentric wave pattern and coated with 50 successive layers of translucent purple lacquer. The bezel is set with 76 round internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds, highlighting the embossed radiating pattern and polished case.

Rolex and TAG Heuer celebrated the 60th anniversary of significant collections this year, Rolex with a restyled Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona and TAG Heuer with new classics in the Carrera line. The latter’s 36mm Carrera Date features four new dial colours: silver, blue, green and a glorious pink. Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 shimmered with gemstone dials in green aventurine, carnelian and turquoise paired with 18ct Everose gold, yellow gold and white gold respectively.

Several brands included salmon dials in the new releases, including Tudor with its sport-chic Royal watch that is synonymous with first-class technical performance, elegance and versatility. The sunray dial is available in light salmon or chocolate brown, with or without diamonds, in 28mm, 34mm, 38mm or 41mm case sizes. V

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A visit to Geneva cannot be declared a true success without a visit to the revered Patek Philippe salon on Rue du Rhône. But despite regular attendance at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, now renamed Watches and Wonders, to marvel at the new watch releases by the major watchmaking brands, I have never had the opportunity to escape the Palexpo and venture into this part of town. However, this year’s invitation to view Patek Philippe’s new Rare Handcrafts collection 2022 at this historic destination could not be refused. The salon is the firm’s spiritual home, occupied since 1853 and bought outright in 1891 when they expanded the manufacturing headquarters into the entire building.

The ground floor makes a lasting impression, filled with windows displaying the full collection in all its splendour – set into walls clad in gleaming dark wood, with leather from Córdoba on the facades. The Rare Handcrafts exhibition took centre stage on one of the upper levels.

While the demand for artisanally decorated watches practically disappeared from 1970 to 1980, the manufacture was passionately committed to safeguarding this precious know-how, especially miniature painting on enamel, dating back almost 500 years.

Each year, the manufacture unveils a new collection of one-of-a-kind pieces and limited editions that highlight such talents. This year’s exhibition included 59 creations – 15 dome table clocks, nine miniature dome table clocks, 10 pocket watches, and 25 wristwatches) featuring grand feu cloisonné enamel, miniature painting on enamel (a genuine Genevan specialty), manual engraving, manual guilloching and paillonné enamel as well as wood micromarquetry and Longwy enamel on faience.

Among the objects directly related to Geneva was the dome table clock 20118M “Bol d’Or” in cloisonné and paillonné enamel, which references the seven trophies won by the manufacture’s honorary president Philippe Stern at the Bol d’Or (Golden Globe) regatta on Lake Geneva. The dates of the victories are inscribed in miniature painting on enamel, while the course of the race is charted in gold wire on the dome. The enameller used 13.8 metres of 24K yellow-gold wire (27.6g) measuring 0.2×0.6mm in cross-section and 64 colours and blends of translucent, opaque, semi-opaque and opalescent enamels and miniature painting on enamel. Embedded gold leaf illuminates the buoy and 13 star-shaped spangles called paillons, also in gold leaf, light up the dome. Each enamelled plate required eight to 10 firings at 820°C. An hour circle in ebony, set with 12 gilt, applied hour markers in the shape of mooring posts, frames a dial centre in cloisonné enamel. A handcrafted cable motif resembling cordage adorns the borders of the hour circle and the clock frame.

Meanwhile, the case back of the pocket watch 995/130G-001 “Swan” showcases this typically Genevan bird in wood micromarquetry. The swan, symbolising light, grace, love and fidelity glides across the back of this unique piece in white gold. Its enamelled dial features hand-engraved hands.

To reproduce the elegant plumage and long curving neck as well as the subtle play of reflections in the water, the marquetry maker cut out and assembled 223 pieces of veneer and 30 tiny inlays, shaped from 23 species of wood of different colours, textures and veining. The dial, in black enamel, presents white-gold applied Breguet numerals and white-gold leaf-shaped hour, minute and seconds hands, embellished with hand-engraving. A spessartine cabochon (0.44 ct) adorns the crown.

This pocket watch is accompanied by a white-gold handcrafted stand resting on a foot set with a spessartine cabochon (0.46 ct) on an oval-shaped base in silver-sheen obsidian.
Meanwhile, wild animals in wood micromarquetry or cloisonné enamel featured on case backs and dials of Calatrava or Golden Ellipse wristwatches in cloisonné enamel. There were greater kudu, oryx antelopes, zebras, lions, rhinoceroses, buffaloes, white Namibian elephants and leopards. For the one-of-a-kind 995/128J-001 “Cheetah” pocket watch, the artist crafted 610 minute parts and 50 inlays from 16 different wood species to depict the cat sprinting at full speed.

Inspired by the naturalistic illustrations of the early 19th century, there were four limited editions, each consisting of six Golden Ellipse wristwatches featuring some of the most extraordinary monkey species on our planet. Their habitat is cloisonné enamel dials complemented with miniature paintings on enamel; one example is the 5738/50G-019 Golden Ellipse and its mischievous American callithrix.

Other wonders of nature, also in the realm of plants, inspired motifs in luminous colours such as on the 20142M “Dog Rose” dome table clock in cloisonné enamel and the 20104M “Convolvulus” dome table clock in Longwy enamel on faience.

The voyage of humanity is depicted on a dome table clock and three Calatrava wristwatches with cloisonné enamel commemorating the first flights across the English Channel, the Atlantic Ocean, and the Pacific Ocean. The 5089G-089 Calatrava has a dial in cloisonné enamel enriched with a miniature painting on enamel showing Louis Blériot aboard his Blériot XI monoplane flying over a coastal landscape and a beach with delicately drawn beach huts.

I was particularly drawn to the ensemble consisting of dome table clocks, pocket watches, and Calatrava wristwatches in cloisonné enamel displaying the charms of Cuba, such as the 992/162G-001 in cloisonné enamel on a hand-guilloched background with manual engravings on the periphery of the case back, the bezel and the bow. This was one of my favourites. The exhibition moved to Paris in May this year, where it was opened to the public before the creations were forwarded to private collectors around
the world.

Preserving artisanal virtuosity

Manual engraving is the oldest decorative art for adorning timepieces. It embellishes the case backs of pocket watches as well as their bezels, bows and hands. Grand feu cloisonné enamel has long been used in watchmaking to create motifs with luminous and enduring colours. First, the artist shapes the contours of the motif with fine flat gold wire and then fills the resulting “cloisons” (cells) with translucent, opaque, semi-opaque or opalescent enamel paints.

Since the 17th century, miniature painting on enamel has ranked among the grand Genevan specialties. The tiny motifs are created dot by dot with a minuscule brush and with colours mixed from enamel powder and lavender oil.

For the tradition-steeped technique of paillonné enamel, small gold- or silver-leaf paillons (punched spangles) are covered with translucent enamel in which they appear to float.
In hand-guilloching, antique, manually controlled machines are used to cut geometric patterns in a metal surface on which light seems to dance. When this interplay of reflections is coated with translucent enamel, it is referred to as flinqué enamel.

Wood micromarquetry is an extremely elaborate technique introduced by Patek Philippe several years ago to decorate the dials of wristwatches or the case backs of pocket watches. It is used to produce small pictures composed of several hundred tiny mosaic pieces of different wood species, colours and graining.

Gemsetting with diamonds adorns the bezels of Calatrava wristwatches with irresistible sparkle. The fully handcrafted pocket watch stands in 18K gold are also set with different gems in nuanced colours.

Patek Philippe showcases its creativity and artisanal expertise on numerous objects with the so-called mixed technique that combines different competencies such as grand feu cloisonné enamel and manual guilloching or the refinement of grand feu cloisonné enamel with miniature painting on enamel.

The manufacture also works with two exotic techniques that were developed in France – grisaille enamel with Limoges white (blanc de Limoges) and Longwy enamel on faience with black framed motifs.

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